Black rot. Shriveled grapes are called mummies, they are source of future infections.

no organic fungicides work on black rot, you have to spray with Immunox (myclobutanil) .

The berries become resistant in 3-4 weeks after bloom but leaves and brunches - not

rainy years - more infections

falling bunches - fungus ate through. Besides black rot, there are other rots and diseases

grapes dont have too many bugs in our area. The main one is a grape berry moth, but it is easy to manage and usually the infestation is not so bad, it burrows into a grape berry itself.

not sure how you can grow grapes in our climate w/o spraying. There are not many options for a home gardener any way.

Concord is sensitive to both, copper and sulfur.

I want to try Oxidate next year

here is a good source of info on grapes

http://grapepathology.blogspot.com/

Dont cut to stump, you are weakening the plant. Remove all mummies.

it is not bugs but fungus

fungus loves wet

there is one borer -weevil, it is called the grape cane girdler but it is active in May, on the ends of new growth, doesnt touch bunches and not that damaging

I have to admit I thought it was bugs and a few times this year I sprayed the leaves of the grape vine with a garden hose thinking it would at least push away bugs that were maybe causing this. I know you shouldn't water the leaves of plants but I didn't do it that much.

Other than that, I didn't over water it but as mentioned neighbor forgets his sprinklers on until it basically floods the root area of this grape tree.

But I forgot to mention I propagated a branch from this grapes and put it about 25 feet away (uphill where neighbor's flooding doesn't reach) and I think the new plant is having same problem but I have to check on that. I propagated it last year and this year it's quite big and producing fruit but I have to check if it's got the dead grapes. The propagated one is under a maple so maybe it's got fungus/moisture issue but the main one is full sun and never had this problem before last year.

If there is a question remaining about what the particular problem is try taking samples of affected parts to the nearest USDA Cooperative Extension Service branch office.

You have not done anything wrong. It was a very wet spring, before bloom and after. Lot's of infection. If you dont spray, it would happen, time to time. Just make sure no mummies left overwinter. Otherwise, they will start infection next spring.

those are the pictures. I put an arrow showing where the trunk is on the larger (7 year old approx) plant. Because last year I cut all to the right of it off thinking it might have bugs in the wood (someone suggested that before). It grew back but no fruit on that side.

Anyway, some notes: I was thinking it being against the fence is not letting it breathe and thus not helping the moisture situation.

The smaller plant in the corner of fence I propagated off this last fall and the grapes have the same problem.

I was thinking it's because the fence, and maybe it didn't do this previous years because the vine is denser now thus preventing air flow but the one in the corner is young but has this problem (but yes it's under a maple in corner and it being a corner means less air flow.

I guess it's just fungal thing from moisture like all you are suggesting.

I do get a decent amount of grapes from this still. One pic of the interior shows a lot of green grapes hopefully will be edible in a month or so. (I just spit out the skin and sour core but I stand there and eat these for an hour a few times a year :)

also don't mind the crabgrass taking over the border bed! I didn't bag enough grass in spring and by the time I planted mostly strawberries and some tomatoes and some eggplant the grass isn't growing that much in mid summer to mulch all my garden areas so I gotta rip the crabgrass out asap like I've been doing. Hopefully strawberries fill it in though. I like low maintenance perennial fruit :)

EDIt: oh, what do you mean mummies? Like the dead grape things? Even if all the grapes fell off, I should still cut the 'bunch' part off of the main branches? Thanks. I might build a large trellis, cedar (don't F with pressure treated lumber in the garden) and maybe that'll help this situation, maybe make it worse though.

Oh and need to mention an overgrown lot I frequent has white concords growing. 5 years ago I filled 3 shopping bags and they were perfect. It's being overtaken by brush and trees so it's not producing like it used to but it has a lot of shade but I don't think I've ever noticed this problem with those grapes. It's 10 min drive away in regards to 'wet spring'.

I don't want to spray this plant with fungicide even though I don't hesitate to eat store-bought grapes which are probably heavily sprayed (I was them, but still), but maybe if I do a little fungicide and then hose it off really well before eating will be ok but I think I'd rather take what I can get from this vine without chems.

Remove all dead grapes on ground too or leave as compost?

thanks again

It is a black rot. On your first pict you can see the typical spot on the leaf. Looks almost perfect and light brown.

Mummies are shriveled berries.

It is too close to the fence. However, you could trim the canopy to allow a better air circulation.

If you dont want to use fungicide, let it be. Eat berries that werent infected.

In a fall make sure you collect all the leaves, all the debries, all the mummies, still hanging and ones on the floor. You can compost them. But make sure they are buried and not exposed. They are full of spores.

Next winter, prune the vine, leave main trunk and two strong brunches so your plant looks like letter T. Make sure all rachis removed. Then spray with horticultural oil or Bordeaux. Hopefully that could help to minimize some spores.

as soon you see the round light brown spots on the young leaves - infection has arrived. Then it is up to you - use Myclobutanil or not.

If the spring dry, and stay dry for 3-4 weeks after bloom, you will have grapes. Otherwise, the same story.

on the photo

1. black rot infection on a leaf

2. Mummies

3. Rachis

this grape tree has gotten worse. I tried thinning it out greatly and leaving it as just two branches going each direction and about like 12 feet (before it was like a bush and even less airflow) and I was hoping keeping it thin would eventually rid it of the fungal problem but it being against a wood fence plus there's shrubs on other side of fence, it really doesn't get the air flow that grapes need in this humid summer climate.

So couple months ago I cut the whole thing down like this pic, hoping the fungal disease the wainters-over and lives in the wood will be gone but it's probably in these trunks too? Should I just cut it to a stump and then only let 1 branch grow each direction? We might make a trellis for it, that should eventually solve it without fungicides which I am not going to use, but we might not make a trellis and just leave it be just as a plant and not to eat.

I propagated another off this and it's doing ok and small enough I can transplant it somewhere else for a trellis because it's also along the fence in the corner not good airflow.

BTW those are blackberry transplants in the buckets hopefully with enough mulch over them they'll make it through the winter planted in the woods and hopefully takes over areas that are just 4' dense thorn bushes!

thanks