I think you are asking me? If not....sorry... I will take the tile up cabinet height around my window as there are cabinets on both sides.....I am leaving the rest of the window without trim as I have 2 & 7/8" from cabinet to edge of window...and thought I would put a small trim around it...but then when they put the light rail up there is only 1 & 7/8"..so think it's too small for trim.....What is everyone's opinion? Just found out today...that the guys that was going to do the tile (looks like they work as a team) won't be able to do it until the one that is having knee surgery is able to work ...which could be weeks!! He came today to get paid for all the other work he did...and I asked him if his partner would go ahead and put the tile up.....He is suppose to let me know... Oh well I've waited this long....and really not long at all...so a few more weeks is OK....just anxious to see the kitchen completely finished...now that I finally have the Subway tile sitting in boxes waiting to be installed.

Lola 99..we made a similar quilt as a 50th anniversay gift for my In Laws...We used Wonder Under to attach the hands and then did the fancy embroidery stitches around them...the Wonder Under held the handprints in place even after the quilt was cleaned....good luck..Val

I've honed with sand paper before, and so long as the guy spends enough time on the tile, there should be no swirl marks of any kind. It should be perfectly uniform, and very much acceptable. Someone who prepares you like that (it may not look like it does when it comes from the factory) does so because they don't think they can do a good job on it. Time to find someone else. But sand-honing CAN be done and done well.

First you might be able to check with the manufacturer to see if they are suited for walls. They also might be able to tell you exactly which notch of trowel to use. Our subway tiles were 3/8" thick and it definitely made the installation take longer. But we were DIYing so we were kind of on our own timeframe anyway. ;) We installed them on an original 1928 bathroom with somewhat wonky walls. In the tub area, we would have to set a course and let that set before we could build up. If we built too much at once, the whole thing would start to shift with gravity. On the walls, we placed a ledger board and used that to set the tiles. There were a lot of times where we were frustrated with tiles starting to slide, especially when working around tiny or detailed cuts. We let the tiles sit a long time before grouting. I think a week or so just to give them a chance to dry as much as possible. We grouted without incident but let that dry longer than the mfr recommended too. Everything has been up for a year and no issues.