Sanded or Unsanded grout with marble?
Kat
5 years ago
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Grout for polished Marble - sanded or unsanded?
Comments (3)Thanks for your input Bill. I certainly understand the principles behind sanded versus unsanded grout. I wish I would have fully worked this out before picking up that bag of 3/16" spacers after putting back the 1/8" ones. I just did a test board with sanded grout, and it scratched the heck out of the polished tile surface. I even took some 400 grit sandpaper to it in the hopes that a matte finish might look nice. Not so good either. I've hear Custom Prism mentioned before as a possible solution, but it has a polished marble warning too. I'm really stuck here. I really can't use sanded or it'll look like crap. Unsanded will likely crack and look like crap. Can unsanded be re-applied to fill voids/cracks the day after with any success? Tearing this out really isn't much of a solution at this point. Thanks for any input....See Moresanded grout? unsanded?
Comments (24)Does the "dry and burlap" method *necessarily* demand muriatic acid? And do you actually mean "dry" or just very stiff? Is there anyplace I can read about this in detail? Let me put it this way-- I've never seen a time when burlap and dry grout (and I do mean handfuls of dry powder) DIDN'T require acid cleaning afterward. I read something called a field report from CTEF that talked about using cheese cloth. I didn't understand it, but it makes sense that cheese cloth would remove less grout from the joint than a sponge. It said something about lightly dragging the cheese cloth across the joint. Is this related? No, this isn't related. You can also do a search on johnbridge.com in John's forum on using microfiber cloths in the same manner. It's a new twist on still another old method of grouting, which entailed using a sponge to loosen up the grout on the face of the tile and shape the joints, and then instead of using a sponge for the final cleaning, a well wrung out terrycloth towel would be dragged diagonally across the tile to clean it. Now instead, cheesecloth or microfiber cloths are used. Some are even swearing by these "shamwow" cloths. Short of that, do you think it is an absolutely mad idea to take a little bit of sand paper to knock down the severe edge of the mosaic? It isn't actually sharp, but if that edge is always going to be felt, I'm not sure that my bare feet are enthusiastic about the prospect. (I'm not suggesting anything dire, just hitting the edges a bit. And I have a lot of extra tile to practice on.) Is this insane? I personally think you're talking about alot of work for nothing, but then again, it's not my feet. If you're going to do this, you're going to want to go through several grits of sandpaper on a sanding block, and wedging the corner of the sanding block into the joint to knock down that edge, and then bring the finish back with the finer grits, going from about an 80 grit to about a 600 grit, or even higher. You'll see when you try it out on your sample....See Moresanded or unsanded grout for natural stone backsplash 1/8' seams?
Comments (7)depends on the tile - if it's really soft stone like Onyx, sanded joint filler will scratch the polish - I had to go and make an inspection on a ceramic tile job where the knuckleheaded installers (they were NOT Pro's in my opinion) scratched the gold leafing on $150.00 A PIECE ceramic tile liners when they used SANDED JOINT FILLER... it scratched the Gold leaf right off the tile and they ate an $18,000 dollar tile order that had to be replaced at their expense. That was NOT a happy day at their office!!!! Joints that are 1/16" or tighter in most cases will be fine with dry grout (non-sanded). As the joint width gets wider, the dry grout (non-sanded) will shrink too much and develope tiny hairline cracks in the joints... not cool. sanded joint filler is used in joints 1/8" and wider - the sand helps eliminate the cracking, plus it's a slightly different type of blend of cements and dyes to help eliminate the hairl;ine cracks too... what is the natural stone you are grouting? this will have some bearing on which type of joint filler I would suggest you use...... kevin Kevin M. Padden MIA SFA Fabricator, Trainer & Consultant to the Natural Stone Industry www.azschoolofrock.com...See MoreNeed to know quick! Sanded vs unsanded grout - what to use?
Comments (16)but I do know that sanded is much stronger and hold up better. I think it is intended for 1/8" or wider grout lines. It's not that it's stronger. It's that it doesn't shrink as much, because of the fact that most of its bulk is the sand. As for the explanation of the different grouts, I just posted this in an FAQ thread on the gallery side of the bathrooms forum. Here it is, copied and pasted: Although there are others, for all intents and purposes, there are two kinds of grout-- portland cement based, and epoxy. The portland cement based grouts are the conventional grouts that have been around for millenniums. Although in the last few decades, they've been modified with latex and other polymers to make them stronger and more resistant to mold and mildew, they're basically the very same grouts that have been used since Greek and Roman days. There are two kinds of portland cement based grouts. One is sanded, and the other unsanded. The only difference between the two is, as their names imply, the sand. The ONLY thing that determines which grout should be used is the joint size. NOT the glaze, NOT aesthetics, NOT the material (ceramic vs. glass or polished marble), NONE of those. I'll repeat-- the ONLY thing that determines which is used, is the joint size. Anything under an 1/8" takes unsanded grout. Anything 1/8" or bigger, you use sanded grout. If you use unsanded grout in larger joints, the cement in the grout will shrink way too much as the water evaporates out of it, and the joints will end up shrinking and cracking bigtime. If you try using sanded grout in smaller joints, the grains of sand will literally clog the top of the joint, and not allow the grout to get down INTO the joint, and the grout will flake off in a matter of days. As for the Epoxy, most epoxy grouts use a much finer "sand", and therefore can be used in any size grout joint. Further, epoxy grouts are everything people say they are. They're much easier to clean, practically stainproof, and also extremely expensive. Most epoxies will cost atleast 4 times the cost of conventional grouts, and the installer will also usually charge a premium of between 1.50- 2.50 a foot for the use of epoxy grout. There are alot of people who will disagree with me, but my own opinion is that for most residential installations, epoxy grout is bigtime overkill. The ONLY times I'll recommend epoxy grout is first, if you're installing a tile countertop, and two, if you have animals in the house that either aren't housebroken, or are prone to accidents. In either of those cases, epoxy might be worth the money. For anything else, though, conventional grout is more than good enough....See MoreKat
5 years agoKat
5 years agoKat
5 years agoDragonfly Tile & Stone Works, Inc.
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoKat thanked Dragonfly Tile & Stone Works, Inc.Kat
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