Yes, we learned that lesson the hard way...the very hard way. We had a wonderful collection of Billiant Period cut glass that'd we'd purchased in the Denver area at Denver prices back in the early 80's. Moved to New England and wanted to switch from our more Victorian furnishings to early American. So, we autioned off literally everything we owned. The cut glass did horribly and we didn't understand. Now, we know that Billiant cut glass is everywhere here and you can buy a tumbler for $30. Oh bummer!!! Won't have to pay more than $150 for a great decanter or pitcher here either and they were hundreds more in Denver. That's one of the reasons antique dealers from all around the country used to make annual pilgramages to New England for inventory. Because there's more here...prices are lower. Supply/Demand issue. Now, with the market off 'cause of Pottery Barn & less product available here...dealers aren't making the trip anymore. We've had lots of dealers fail since 911...the market just hasn't recovered. It will though...it always does. Antiques are cyclical just like real estate. The antique market tends towards ten year cycles and we've been in the dumps for four years so, probably, have a ways to go before things look up. Great buying opportunties around though.... So, yes...markets are regional. In Virginia, obviously, the closer you are to D.C. the higher price you'll probably realize. But, they're going to be fairly common there as well.

Lynne: Thanks for the compliments on my table. I can imagine it might be more difficult to find this type of set in your area since the style may be more regional. Do keep looking though. I had similar problem having fallen in love with a lyre-style coffee table. I searched CL regularly using every keyword I could think of. Twice I found one only to have it slip away; but the third time I was able to buy and for a good price. It did take about 4 months of looking though and having an empty space in my LR. Since then I've found the side tables and a game table, but I no longer needed those pieces and I actually prefer not having "matched" furniture anyway so each piece is unique and stands on it's own, though all have the DF style legs and are mahogany. Like what Red said, it seems when you stop looking, you tend to find them. As for the legs, I wanted to take a pic of mine, but my camera battery needed to be rechanged so will have to do so later. In any case, it depends on how many leaves you put in and how you arrange the feet on the pedestals. There is some flexibiity as the pedestals are screwed into the table. There is a point more where the chair legs do bump the pedestal so they cannot be fully pushed in if you notice from my other picture. There is evidence of scuffing around the base. That is part of the charm with antiques, however. It's called patina. Seriously, though, I do plan to take Restore-A-Finish to my chairs and table base to clean it up when I get around to reupholstering my chairs (which I will do after I select a rug). Here is another example I think you can appreciate of patina. This is the table top of my game table. I just love the distressing, though I dislike new-distressed furniture: If you look closely at the edge detail, it is no longer a smooth edge, but has sort of a worn roundedness to it. It's hard to explain unless you see some really nice quality mahogany pieces, but the glow and character of the wood only improve with age even if it is scuffed or scratched. I'm showing you this as I did come across some inferior quality "mahogany" sets before I found mine. Sometimes they are refinished as well and depending on if they used a tinted stain, you may/may not care for it.

What is the "vibe" you are going for? My chairs would look great with your table, but they're simple leather with contrasting stitching. But my place is definitely contemporary/modern. (Obviously, there's a huge difference between the antique chairs tibbrix posted and the modern chairs Lars posted).

Looks like a clean break. I suggest using a premium wood glue and some clamps. You will need at least one C- clamp to hold the joint aligned, as this type of split the more clamping pressure applied the more the 2 pieces will slide away from each other. Then you will need to apply clamping pressure on the leg from both ends. A pipe clamp should do the job. You will need to clamp the joint precisely together and with as much pressure as you can so the actual break line should disappear. Also use a generous coat of glue on both sides and dont worry about excessive glue as you can wipe that off with a damp cloth. You will know if you have enough pressure if it looks like it as squeezed all the glue out of the joint, once you have it clamped. I recommend doing a test run to see the best places to put the clamps so the the joint will be aligned together. I wouldnt use any screws, as you could easily split the wood causing even more damage. Placing screws in a break like this requires precision pilot hole drilling, thats difficult to achieve on each of the 2 sides. Remember that a glue joint in wood is as strong as the wood itself if using the correct clamping pressure.