Leaves partially wrapping around stem
Rick (zone 6b, MA)
5 years ago
Can someone help me identify the plant in the center of this photo, even though it hasn’t yet flowered? (ignore the pink flower on the right). And what is the botanical term for when the leaf is partially wrapped around the stem like this?
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Rick (zone 6b, MA)
5 years agoI cropped the photo if that helps in identification. (The pink flower is not part of the plant.)
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Apparent partial success with SVB this year
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Comments (3)They could be rooted but unless you see actual roots on the bottom of the stems now those leaves that are developing are just using the stored energy in the cane itself. If you'd like to try rooting them get a clear plastic cup and punch a hole in the bottom. Fill it with potting or seed starting soil and poke a hole in the center of the soil with a pencil. Take the stem and very gently scrap off just the outer green skin with a knife or scissors exposing the white inner layer. Dip that into some type of rooting hormone and stick it in the hole you made in the soil and gently pack the soil back around the stem. Water it, place it in the sun and keep it evenly moist but not soggy wet and wait. It may take a few weeks to see any roots in the bottom of the cup. If the stem starts to turn brown or black at the soil line that usually means it's rotting and didn't take. If they do root they will grow and bloom like any rose. Good luck!...See Morekill poison ivy that wraps around KnockOut Rose
Comments (13)Roses can absorb RoundUp from the soil i.e. overspray is not the only way glyphosate can reach your roses. The Round-Up can leave the roots of a treated weed, pass through the soil, and be picked up by the roots of nearby rose bushes. http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11104-007-9387-1# AND http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S116103010900063X Also, the glyphosate could remain bound in the soil for long time periods. "Glyphosate [(N-(phosphonomethyl)glycine)] is a widely used herbicide and it is known to compete for the same sorption sites in soil as phosphorus. Persistence and losses of glyphosate were monitored in a field with low phosphorus status and possible correlation between glyphosate and phosphorus leaching losses was studied. Glyphosate and its metabolite AMPA (aminomethyl phosphoric acid) residues in soil samples were analyzed after a single application in autumn. Twenty months after the application the residues of glyphosate and AMPA in the topsoil (0�25 cm) corresponded to 19% and 48%, respectively, of the applied amount of glyphosate, and traces of glyphosate and AMPA residues were detected in deeper soil layers (below 35 cm). These results indicate rather long persistence for glyphosate in boreal soils." http://www.springerlink.com/content/w1461w60366lk018/ Then, when you add fertilizer with P; the glyphosate could be released. "The results suggest that re-mobilization of glyphosate may represent an additional transfer pathway for glyphosate to non-target plants which is strongly influenced by soil characteristics such as P fixation potential, content of plant-available iron, pH, cation exchange capacity, sand content and soil organic matter." http://www.springerlink.com/content/t7h6601566432076/...See MoreWhen to put cages with leaves around hydrangeas?
Comments (2)If talking about climate issues only, I would place the chicken wire way before the leaves dry out. just encircle the shrubs with the wire. Only. Add leaves or mulch later, when the leaves brown out. Putting the stakes and the wire is a big pain for me so I try to do this early; early as in on a warm weekend. If talking about climate issues and bunnies then I would only encircle the plant early, before winter arrives and before any 'visitors' typically show up (deer, squirrels, bunnies). Then add leaves/mulch when the leaves dry out. I tend to use some heavy wire that is difficult to bend and with small openings so pests have a hard time sticking their noses thru the wire holes. In warm areas, you may not need leaves/mulch. To reliably produce bloomage in cold areas, I would use leaves and-or mulch. Oakleaf hydrangeas are hardy to Zone 5; their flower buds develop in July-August (August-ish in the northern states). They need to be protected thru winter if your winter is unusually cold or if warm temperatures in winter make the plants break dormancy. Paniculatas are hardy to Zone 3 and their blooms develop in late Spring thru early summer; winter does not kill their flower buds since they are no flower buds in the plant yet. I bought my wire tall enough to reach the tallest ones (I can't remember now but maybe 5-6' high) and to protect from winter in rare cases. I think 2-3' high may be ok to protect from bunnies but, I would keep the wire at least 6" away from the tips of the stems. Feel free to add burlap too....See More
Jay 6a Chicago
5 years agoIt looks like the same plant i posted a while
back. Mine is getting close to blooming. This plant has grown much taller like the one in the photo.Rick (zone 6b, MA)
5 years agoJay 6a Chicago
5 years agoJay 6a Chicago
5 years ago
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 years agoJay 6a Chicago
5 years agoJay 6a Chicago
5 years ago
carol23_gw
5 years agoRick (zone 6b, MA)
5 years ago
BlueberryBundtcake - 6a/5b MA
5 years agoJay 6a Chicago
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agocarol23_gw
5 years ago
thefof Zone 8/9 UK
2 years ago
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BlueberryBundtcake - 6a/5b MA