It would be of great help to know your location, or at least your garden zone. Note how the rest of us include that info. Especially so since it is quite unusual to have all those crops growing at the same time, much less doing it right now. Each crop has different nutrient needs and different feeding schedules. As already mentioned, usually fertilizers are worked into the soil prior to planting and then each crop fed its supplemental needs on the schedule for that crop. For ex: Tomatoes at first fruit set and then approx. every 6 weeks. Corn side dressed when 12-18" tall. Cukes every 2 weeks. Peppers low N every 6 weeks. etc. Never heard of Medina so had to look it up. It is listed as a lawn fertilizer and thatch remover when lawn clippings are not picked up. It also includes a pre-emergent for weed control. It is listed as safe for vegetable gardens but that is not its primary purpose, especially with the weed killer in it. It is rated at 4-2-3. Personally I would return it to the store. Manure tea is to be used only when extremely well-diluted and only as a root drench, not on the leaves, and never around low-growing crops where it can contaminate the edible parts. Bone meal takes from 6 months to 1 year to have any effect. I recommend some extensive reading over on the Organic Gardening forum here about safe and proper use of organic gardening supplements.. Dave

Way too funny! I found many, many things that apply to me lol! I especially like the one where you are driving down the road and almost crash into a tree because you are trying to see other peoples gardens! lolololol! That definitely describes me! I almost back ended someone while trying to turn my head 360 degrees to see someones garden! lol You know you are addicted to gardening when you sit outside at work during a break and think about what else needs to be done in the garden that day and week. And, yes my bathroom has lots of reading material of the gardening type! My hubby thinks I'm nuts!

Yeah Mike, you're right - tomato cuttings root easily and don't need any artificial oxygenation if you put them in (a small or bigger) amount of water. If they die or wilt in a few days before taking roots, it's not because of a lack of oxygen in the water, but most likely because they suffer (ending up in cell damage) from heat or other unfavorable causes. The mostly overseen aspect of water oxygenation and condition is probably that Hydrogen Molecules have a high affinity for Oxygen molecules anyway -> H2O. Which is definitely a good thing as "water" tends to catch Oxygen molecules when ever it can. In fact it can't be without them and that's why you actually never encounter H in it's pure form in nature ;-) The other common error is to assume that one can saturate or hyper-charge water (or nutrient solution) with oxygen through mechanical methods. But as there is a limit to the dissolved oxygen water can absorb and hold, which is dependent on water (nutrient) temperature and to altitude to some extend - you can't exceed the physical maximum that can be dissolved under the existing conditions. At see level, water has indeed a bigger capacity of dissolved oxygen as water at a certain- or high altitude has. Hence, depending on temperatures and altitude (to some extend only for the later) water can (literally) only hold a certain amount of oxygen anyway. And here is exactly the point where ideal water temperatures of nutrients make sense. But then again (and here I truly speak from experience) sometimes over-idealized or even overrated. Although a temperature of 24 degree C is commonly accepted as ideal and is probably the best compromise between dissolved oxygen CAPACITY and growing rate, - a slightly higher temperature, up to 28 degree C, may end up in a better growing rates with CERTAIN conditions. As long as the (indeed lower) capacity of dissolved oxygen at higher nutrient temps is replaced continuously, of course. One must add here that the higher the nutrient temperatures climb, the more likely fungal introduction and spread becomes. There also is a lot of controversial debates and "experimentation" about if you can "add" any OXYGEN through air bubbles at all - and if, how much? And what would be the difference between finer and bigger bubbles? I've read a lot about the topic and couldn't conclude anything plausible out of it so far- which made me end up in not using any air bubblers at all. The only thing that I conclude, is that water movement of any sort (including the one created with bubblers) is accelerating and promoting oxygen replacement. Hence I generally use the downfall of any runback of nutrients for the purpose. With success I must say and apparently with sufficient re-oxygenation support. And that's the term I would use here, I guess: "re-oxygenation support" ;-) Cheers, Lucas

Ohh i started a thread for you on a good wood burner site. http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/5108/ I do think that its crazy that you modded your stove, you have to look at local conditions first, that stove is on the market because it went through extensive testing, and you just voidied that listing, you have to figure it works as designed, and if its not working then there is somthing wrong with the install. if for somereason your burn your house down, and the insurance company finds out you modded the stove your SOL.