I'm redoing my stairs to have oak treads, oak handrails, and wrought iron balusters. This is the basic idea of my stair layout and what I want to do. First 9 steps are open on the left and last 6 steps are closed on both sides. I've got the treads and risers installed, and it's time for the handrails and balusters. The instructions I've found on the web for installing wrought iron balusters all assume a remodel, keeping the existing railing and just swapping out the balusters. That way you've already got aligned holes and it's a relative piece of cake. What I need help with: 1. How do I cut the handrail so it's got the right angle between the top wall and the bottom newel post? Do I lay the bannister along the front edges of the treads, use that as my angle, and then just raise it up 34-38" and attach it to the wall and newel? Easier way? 2. How do I align the holes in the treads and bannister? Can I install the bannister first, then drill the hole in the tread, use a level to make it plumb into the top, and then use a jig spacer from there? Easier way? 3. I need flat shoes to cover the holes in the treads. What about the holes in the underside of the bannister? You can buy angled shoes, but they are 45 degrees, and my bannister won't be at exactly a 45 degree angle. Do I omit shoes on the top? If so, how do I cover the ugly hole/epoxy? 4. On the upper (closed) portion of the stairs, the PO never installed a handrail. The easiest fix would be to add a wall portion with returns on top and bottom. But in reading the stair code, I think I am supposed to make the whole thing continuous, i.e., jog the handrail in when it hits the wall, then continue it on up to the top. Can I get away with a discontinuous one? I'm having a hard time envisioning how the balusters would work if I did the bendy one (i.e., can I maintain the

the stairs are built an in place...nothing fancy...steps down to the basement in a straight run. I was go place the newell at the base of the steps, resting on the concrete floor setting against the first riser. I have access to the undeside of the steps....was going to run bolts thru the fron of the newell through the riser and crawl down low under the steps and secure the locking washers and nuts. I can also glue I suppose. Does this sound right or does the newell need to bemounted in the concrete as well?

Thanks Wayne. Looks like 9 ft rope light maybe in 3ft channels to keep straight along stringer will work. Can cut off plug and wire to box in basement or back of closet at bottom of stairs. Now just have to see what my carpenter thinks of capping off with molding (since it'll be about 6" short of my stringer length could cause problems with transition - he's still trying to figure out how to finish off stringer at bottom). It'll raise my stringer height about 1/2" so that's another 1/2" to deal with in transition to baseboard.

I like Mohawk SmartStrand broadloom. A loop and cut pile gives interest without too much pattern if you want a neutral look. Here is a nice one with lots of color options. Don’t be afraid of going light in tone for nice contrast with wood. Not sure what colors are going into your adjoining rooms. Be good if you know wall colors at least.