Gregmills, thank you for replying to my post. In 2009, I had several installers take moisture readings and my floor was dry. BUT since 2009, I had the water damage from the water heater on 3-20-13 which damaged the 5" wide BR-111 Brazilian Cherry engineered wood floors which have not been removed and are over the Floor Muffler Ultra pad that they were floated on. I had to buy area rugs as the planks had cracked and lifted. I was waiting to have the insurance claim settled first before removing the floors. My little 6 lb Maltese got her foot caught costing me over $300 with the vet bill, X-rays and pain medicine. Thankfully nothing was broken when she was running and got her foot caught in the floor and was whimpering and carrying on. That is why I bought the inexpensive temporary small area rugs to cover many of the damaged areas until the insurance company settled with me. I had chosen to install the same Brazilian Cherry Wood but now sold directly by Triangulo to stores rather than first sold to BR-111. I just want to change my width to 3.25" from 5". I would prefer a floating floor again as it felt like a solid wood floor but was not so hard on my feet. The store had bought a large lot of 3" Solid Indusparquet Brazilian Cherry Hardwood so can give me a very good price on installing the solid wood by gluing it down using SIKA 2. I did look this product up and they are saying 3/4" solid hardwood can be glued directly to the concrete since it has a moisture barrier and good holding power but flexible. I did call the manufacture of this wood today and Indusparquet will not warranty the solid wood unless it is nailed to plywood floors. I have get to go to the store to discuss the estimate he prepared for me but I am feeling I need to tell him that I really prefer the 3.25" engineered wood downstairs and upstairs. In the summer time, the air conditioner keeps the humidity level down and the house is maintained at 36 - 40% humidity. In the winter time, the dry air is a problem with my forced hot air heat. I used humidifiers downstairs in the day time in my home office and upstairs at night. I have never had a problem with the 5" engineered wood floors until the water damage so I feel I am OK with the engineered wood floors. But when I go upstairs at night, it is very dry and I have to run the humidifiers on a long time to make my bedroom humid enough so I do not get nose bleeds. This is what I am afraid of with the solid wood. I am also afraid of the install failing downstairs where the concrete floor is not flat/level. I filled the large cracks I found when the carpet was removed in 2009 before the installer arrived to install the floor. I will not use him again as he told me to use 2 less boxes so I changed my order and we ran out of wood and he never came back to finish the job when the wood arrived. I want someone to do the full job and charge me extra for moving the heavy cabinets. I have bought so many stackable crates since I will empty them. I have called moving companies to get prices and in case a store does not want to move the cabinets into my garage themselves and to put them back on the floors.

> It seems as though there are 10.5W and 9.5W versions of the EcoSmart CR4 and CR6. I assume the 9.5W are newer The 575-lumen CR6 has always used 9.1 watts - that's what the government found when it was submitted for Energy Star certification - but Cree rated their lamps conservatively at 10.5w. More recently they changed the box design and now label it as 9.5w, which is still slightly more that it really uses. One thing that really has changed (other than the price dropping) as that it's now rated for use in wet locations (such as above showers) where water could splash on it. Both the box and the lamp bezel itself are so labelled. The old box design and the lamps in them were rated merely for "damp" locations (such as in a bathroom but away from the tub or shower). Again, I'm not sure whether anything has changed in the new lamps, or whether Cree (or some other entity) only recently decided they were adequately water-resistant. The CR4 has always been sold as 9.5w and unlike the CR6 remains not approved for wet locations.

Newport Brass makes several models of wall mount tub fillers. This one is 8GPM, which is plenty, as far as I am concerned: Tub Filler I have a similar Newport Brass wall mount that puts out less volume, but is still adequate. Just be aware that, if the spout does not extend far enough into the tub that the water stream hits the bottom, you may get splashback onto the nearby bathroom wall with a spout that is only far enough over the tub edge that the stream hits the upper area of the inner wall of the tub. This is especially true for a high volume valve.

You're saying that the curve you need to make is higher in the middle than at the ends (rainbow). I had the same problem a number of years ago. In my case a short section of wall was slightly bowed but the process is the same. Make a series of parallel (kerf) cuts along the back of the shoe with a saw. Start with 1/4" or so spacing and add more cuts as needed. Obviously you don't want to cut through the visible surface of the shoe. The cuts will make the wood more flexible and give it a place to "go" when you start bending. Look at figure 4-2 in the link provided. It's not base shoe but I think you'll get the idea Here is a link that might be useful: Kerf cuts