I have a silly questions about placement of front door on a Colonial
Andrew Nelson
5 years ago
Featured Answer
Comments (19)
Judy Mishkin
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
question about shrub placement
Comments (11)Sounds a lot like my backyard. My garden is highest in the middle, consistently slopes downward, has a somewhat steeper slope (dropping a good 3 feet in a couple feet) about two thirds of the way to the property line, is lower on both sides, but quite a lot lower on one side than the other. I put taller shrubs on the low side, shorter ones on the high side. BUT, I also had much different drainage conditions from one side to the other. If this is true for your friend's situation, then I believe the height of the shrubs is probably only a minor consideration. In my garden the high side has much better drainage, the low side holds water & sometimes lies in water. Plantings had to be quite different from side to side. Both sides are in full sun. For example, the center of the yard and part of the left lower side will grow a pine, the low areas on the right will kill a pine in one season. Finding deciduous plants & shrubs to suit both sides was fairly easy, finding evergreens in my climate was not. Since I didn't want to lose a lot of money experimenting with expensive shrubs and trees for the "wet garden" and a lot of the water loving ones get much too large for my smallish space and I'm a plantaholic anyway, the very low right side has more perennials than the left side, where I have a few shrub roses among the pines, daylilies, and grasses. (BTW, Itea & Clethra will grow on both sides). The perennials on the lowest side, such as water loving iris, are interspersed with a lot of cheap thicketing shrubs, like red twigs, and only a few tall arborvitaes (up the slope somewhat, where it is not too wet) for winter color and to balance the small rounded pines on the other side. Thus the height was more a function of what would grow well where. I mostly used color to unify the area, using a Blue Montgomery Spruce, 3 Crimson Pigmy Barberries, a Purple Leaf Sand Cherry & Purple Smokebush on one side & another Blue Montgomery Spruce, 3 more CP Barberries & 2 Physocarpus Diablo (which tolerate wet clay quite well) on the other side (toward the higher middle for drainage reasons) with a lot of red blooming perennials (quite different ones) on each side. I also used some tall grasses in place of shrubs in both areas, dry & wet and even planted bulbs on both sides, daffodils on the higher side and camassia on the other. Despite the fact that the spaces were different in size, I used a very similar bed shape on each side, trying for some additional symmetry that way, since the plantings were so different. Hope this gives you some ideas of the issues you can have with slopes and dropoffs....See MoreUrgent question about sink placement in granite
Comments (3)jo-i-am, is your faucet installed yet? Typically there is more space behind the sink in order to have room for the faucet and not to crowd the faucet. Depending on the design of your faucet, you may need a little space behind it to be able to grasp the handles, or to clean in front and behind it. My experience is limited to only a few projects like this, but the spacing you describe sounds about right to me -- depending, again, on the design of your faucet. If your faucet isn't in yet, then reserve final judgment until you see your sink with the faucet installed; it may look better than just the "naked" countertop. To others reading this thread, the lesson here is a good one: make sure you discuss the placement of your sink and your faucets with your granite fabricator at the time of templating, and again at the time of installation if your fabricator drills the faucet holes on-site (some do it in the shop; some do it at your house). Placement of the sink may be constrained by your vanity cabinet and/or your faucet, but the granite people will tell you what is or isn't possible, or advisable -- and you stand a much better chance of getting what you want (or at least not being surprised with the end result). -- Eric...See MoreUrgent question about granite fabrication and seam placement
Comments (12)I appreciate everyone's feedback. Unfortunately I don't have the dimensions of the slab as that information was not provided to me. The slabs were selected a few months ago so it seems there has been ample time to have realized a second seam was needed based on the layout. I didn't select the fabricator - it is who my contractor uses. I obtained bids and interviewed several contractors. I had glowing recommendations from multiple people. The contractor raved about the fabricator and showed me several examples of their work that were very high quality. I started to feel less confident when I arrived for the mapping and felt rushed through the process and they could not provide an explanation as to why a second seam was necessary. I recognize that sometimes there are considerations that the average homeowner might not take into account, so I would have liked it explained to me with sufficient time to change to something different if necessary. If I hadn't insisted on attended the mapping, I would not have known of the second seam until installation. If the countertop was fabricated with one seam as originally planned, the largest piece would be 7'6", which doesn't seem unusually large to me, but there may be information that I don't have. Thanks again for the feedback. It's been a tough process and I spent alot of time planning and researching and am upset to think of being disappointed in one of the most visible parts of the kitchen. Thought I had done adequate due diligence and planning....See MoreSektion question related to pull placement on drawer fronts.
Comments (16)The stainless steel attaches differently from all of the others. I compared the installation pdfs, and all of the fronts - like yours - are placed squarely on the front. The stainless steel - probably due to the weight - is bracketed over and around the sides. So it poses a problem on the inside of the drawer. The panel bracket is shorter than the BLANKETT overhang (for lack of a better description) but the BLANKETT pull still has to fit over the stainless bracket, and it just doesn't work. I just received an email from IKEA customer service and they said BLANKETT pulls don't work with SEKTION at all. Now, that is a lie, because yours work perfectly! So, I am in one of the IKEA nightmares I have heard about. I will take your suggestion to my contractor. Hopefully it will work. I read in another post that someone did that to their 15" BLANKETT pulls....See MoreVirgil Carter Fine Art
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAndrew Nelson
5 years agoA Fox
5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAndrew Nelson
5 years agoA Fox
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoJudy Mishkin
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoSammy
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAnglophilia
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoA Fox
5 years agoCAROL STEWART
3 years agores2architect
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
Related Stories
FUN HOUZZEverything I Need to Know About Decorating I Learned from Downton Abbey
Mind your manors with these 10 decorating tips from the PBS series, returning on January 5
Full StoryCURB APPEAL9 Daring Colors for Your Front Door
Stand out from the neighbors with a touch of neon green or a punch of hot pink
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESHouzz Planning: How to Choose a Front Door
Wood, Fiberglass or Steel? Find the Right Material for Your Entry Door
Full StoryCRAFTSMAN DESIGNCraftsman Front Doors Make an Entrance
For curb appeal, warmth and natural light, consider a classic Craftsman-style door for your home's entryway
Full StoryDOORS5 Questions to Ask Before Installing a Barn Door
Find out whether that barn door you love is the right solution for your space
Full StoryCURB APPEAL5 Bright Palettes for Front Doors
Splash bold green, blue, orange or red on your front door, then balance it with a more restrained hue on the rest of the house
Full StoryFUN HOUZZHouzz Quiz: What Color Should Your Front Door Be?
Think you’re hip enough for orange? Or optimistic enough for yellow? Take our front-door personality quiz and find out
Full StoryCURB APPEAL77 Front Doors to Welcome You Home
Crossing the threshold is an event with these doors in a gamut of styles
Full StoryFRONT DOOR COLORSFront and Center Color: When to Paint Your Door Black
Love the idea of a black front door? Here are 8 exterior palettes to make it work
Full StoryFRONT DOOR COLORSFront and Center Color: When to Paint Your Door Blue
Who knew having the blues could be so fun? These 8 exterior color palettes celebrate sunny-day skies to electric nights
Full StoryProfessional Remodelers in Franklin County Specializing Kitchen & Bath
User