There is often a request to make suggestions for what to do with a blank slate or a blank canvas. We expect nothing from a blank canvas until it is framed, then it becomes a non picture or a potential picture. It is the desire to make something within the frame that is the real question. So as not to be too obscure, I wonder how we can frame a space so as to raise the expectation of ÂgardenÂ? Once we have achieved this focus we can move on to the details. The Âframe I think is "what is the garden for?" what do you want to do there and what do you want it to do for you? It is not enough to expect Âgarden to have a generic meaning that you stamp onto your Âblank canvas or arrives on its own unless you want the three white horses running through foamy water over the sofa look. There is probably nothing wrong with having a garden that has no personal meaning and is there just to fill the space I just think it should be a conscious choice. The implication of a blank slate is, "I can do whatever I want here" which is not strictly true if it is a garden we are talking about because those rules regarding soil, sun and zone will restrict your choices whether you are a princess or a panel beater. So it is a blank space with some preconditions and in need of maintenance, even more maintenance after you have installed your masterpiece. A long time ago when I worked in a restaurant kitchen the chef would stall the menu naming of the soup until after it was done, the name depending on how it turned out. The stock would vary and some bones would go in along with a bit of this and a bit of that, ÂBrown Windsor was a common soup of the day! I suggest naming a garden in advance to avoid such a muddy result. Lifted from my blog

You're wise to forget the wood fence, especially along the canal. My first bit of advice is to run, don't walk, to nurseries and buy Lady Banks roses for that stretch of chainlink fence. At least two of us - me and Mary McP - are big fans of LBR's for privacy. The big plus is that they will also create an impenetrable barrier between you and mischief-makers. They do need some pruning now and then, mostly to remove suckers, but once they are established, the most they need is water - and not a lot of that. As for the section between you and your neighbor (I'm assuming this is a side fence and you actually have a neighbor there.), I'd choose other shrubs or vines. There is a huge selection of vines that will happily cover the chainlink and provide some greenery and privacy. Your challenge will be to choose one that won't invade your and your neighbor's yard. Here is a link that might be useful: All about vines

Ditto on widening the bed (to give you more room to work and to be in better proportion with the fence), planning/planting for layers, planting in bunches or drifts, soil test (at the very least, pH, which is usually done free while you wait), and building your soil. You might also consider giving the bed edge some gentle curves rather than a straight line. The remaining trees look like some additional pruning is advisable, with some of the lower branches going off at strange angles/directions. If they are Bradford pears, consider replacing them now or in the future - they are weak-branched, prone to splitting and dropping limbs, and are invasive in some regions. While you're at the library or book store for the above-mentioned book, I highly recommend The Living Landscape, Designing for Beauty and Biodiversity in the Home Garden, by Darke & Tallamy. You might also find inspiration in The Layered Garden by David Culp. Another source of inspiration might be a botanical garden in the area. Staff is often pleased to share information about their plantings, too. Consider some of the better-behaved native plants in your region - they are usually best adapted to our environment, requiring less maintenance on your part. Redbud (all sorts of exciting cultivars), fothergilla, oakleaf hydrangea, inkberry holly (tiny rounded evergreen leaves, no sharp points!), coral bells (heuchera - also in many colors), tiarella, solomon's seal (our green native or its European cousin, the variegated, which really lights up the shade), fernleaf bleeding heart (dicentra eximia), are just some in my shady areas. If you have enough sun, baptisia, native honeysuckle (lonicera sempervirens), New England aster. I shouldn't have started :-) The dappled willow impressed me at first, then it become so common I wouldn't have it for free. Daylilies are very adaptable and will get by with about a half day's sun, and also available in an amazing range of colors, sizes, flower forms, and bloom times (early, mid and late). There are some great understory trees and shrubs that will give you color when least expected. Toad lily for fall. Our native witch hazel blooms Oct-Dec, while the Asian varieties Feb-April, depending on variety. Hellebores start blooming in February here in my NJ garden and keep going through daffodil season. Take your time, as suggested above, and try to enjoy the process of exploring the possibilities and planning. Fall and spring are good times to plant, as there is less heat stress on the plant while it is becoming established. Remember that in fall, the sun's heat is waning, but the soil is still warm enough to promote root growth. There are, however, some few plants that are slow to root, so are best transplanted in spring. That being said, I have sometimes had to move plants at the most inappropriate time and they've thrived with good site prep and attention to watering.

For starters, I'd do a cleanout of the space. Getting the extra stuff out of sight will make it much easier to envision the possibilities. Remove/throw out everything you don't plan to keep (I'd start with that black plastic edging), stow away the kid stuff (as long as possible anyway, ha), and clean everything that stays, especially the hard surfaces (the patio, shed, siding, fence, all of it). It would be wise to use part (maybe most) of the budget to hire someone with the appropriate equipment & experience to scrape out the gravel, put in good topsoil, and level the backyard without damaging the maple's root system. Between the gravelly soil and maple tree, you'd have a heck of a time growing any grass right now. It's not a fun way to spend money, but it's more fun than doing that work yourself! You'd be ready to spread grass seed then. Wood chips would be very wise under the tree, a lawn won't grow there anyway. :)