Looking 4 organic japanese beetle eradication success stories! Traps?
rubysees
5 years ago
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Any success stories of using ZERO pesticides or herbicides?
Comments (41)No chemicals or pesticides for years and as of the last two years, no tilling... and my garden gets better every year. The only things I use sparingly (so sparingly that I haven't used any so far this year) is an organic fungicide and some BT for controlling caterpillars (also have not used this so far). The only scary thing about using no pesticides and no herbicides is that things will always get worse before they get better. Basically, detrimental insects are the first to show up, they are opportunistic feeders and when presented with tender and delicious garden crops they will begin feasting. Their numbers will likely grow large assuming they have enough to eat and ideal conditions in other respects. Only once their numbers are fairly significant will the beneficial predatory insects begin to show up because their food (other insects) is now readily available. For my garden, the first on the scene are aphids, then come the flea beetles... Their numbers grow large, my plants leaves begin to look like they're part of a shooting range with holes all over the place. Then the ladybugs show up, then the hoverflies, then green lacewings and I get treated to the site of a praying mantis every now and then. The aphids nearly disappear, the flea beetles reduce in number so as to become non-issue and sometimes they disappear completely. Organic gardening without pesticides and herbicides is easy, once you figure out what works in your area - that's where the research and trial and error begin. The biggest thing I learned is that gardening without pesticides and herbicides means you need to plan things out and do things differently, generally at different times of year. I was always taught (non-organic) to till and add fertilizer in the spring, give your plants some "blue water" once they’re a certain size, and some more at regular intervals for the rest of the season; When the bugs show-up, spray them. For weeds, I was always told to use block material or landscape fabric, it’ll keep weeds from coming through. What I do now is no-till with mulching about 3-4 times a year using locally grown hay (preferably alfalfa hay - though it's more expensive and I generally go with a mix) maintaining a 4-6" deep layer for most of the year. The hay mulch smothers just about every weed, retains soil moisture, protects the soil life, and feeds the soil as it breaks down; It's great stuff. In the fall I top-dress my amendments: Compost made from kitchen scraps, some manure (free) from a local horse farm, chopped leaves and grass, and then hay over the top - It rots over the fall, winter, and early spring. Then (early spring) I add more hay and then I plant directly into it. By the time plants go into the soil, they have everything they need for pretty much the whole season. Mid-to-late season I'll pile on some more mulch to maintain about 4-6 inches in mulch thickness and keep the flow of food into the soil. No spraying for bugs involved in any of that. It actually works out to also be a lot cheaper since I have no real need to buy any fertilizers and to mulch 400 sq ft. of garden costs 16 dollars....See Moresafe/organic prevention for japanese beetles
Comments (16)"Natural Controls Many kinds of birds such as bobwhites, eastern kingbirds, crows, European starlings, redwinged blackbirds, catbirds, songsparrows, robins and grackles eat Japanese beetles. European starlings, common grackles and crows eat large numbers of grubs in heavily infested areas. When grubs are close to the surface, flocks of starlings may be seen on lawns and pastures digging up grubs with their long, pointed bills. Crows frequently pull up small pieces of turf and scatter them over a lawn as they dig. Moles, shrews and skunks also feed on white grubs. These animals can damage lawns as they search for grubs. Predaceous insects such as wheel bugs, robber flies and praying mantids occasionally feed on adult beetles. A few native wasps and flies also feed on beetle adults or grubs, but they appear to play only a minor part in beetle control. Several parasitic wasps, flies and beetles have been imported from the Orient in an attempt to control the beetle in the United States with only limited success. Milky Spore Disease Milky spore disease is a bacterial disease that kills Japanese beetle grubs. Spores of this bacterium are produced commercially and sold under the names of Doom,, Japidemic, and Milky Spore. The application of milky spore may reduce the numbers of Japanese beetle grubs in lawns but beetles will fly in from other areas to damage plants and crops. Research trials using this approach to reduce grub numbers in turf have given very erratic results. The disease does not kill other types of grubs that damage turf. See ENT-10, Controlling White Grubs for additional information. Collecting Beetles Hand collecting obviously is not the most effective method of control, but can be used to protect valuable plants when beetle activity is relatively low. The presence of beetles on a plant attracts more beetles. When you remove beetles daily by hand from a plant, only about half as many are attracted to that plant compared to those on which beetles are allowed to accumulate. One of the easiest ways to remove beetles from small plants is to shake the plants early in the morning (about 7 a.m.) when temperatures are low and the beetles sluggish. The beetles may be killed by shaking them into a bucket of soapy water. Trapping Beetles In recent years commercial or homemade traps have become a popular means of trying to reduce beetle numbers. Commercially available traps attract the beetles with two types of baits. One mimics the scent of virgin female beetles and is highly attractive to males. The other bait is a sweet-smelling food-type lure that attracts both males and females. This combination is such a powerful and effective attractant that traps can draw in thousands of beetles in a day. Only a portion of the beetles attracted to traps are caught in them. Small number of traps in a home landscape can actually increase Japanese beetle problems rather than reduce them." "Traps may be effective in reducing Japanese beetle problems if used throughout a neighborhood or in open areas well away from valuable plantings or vulnerable crops. In most home landscape situations, using 1 or 2 traps probably will do more harm than good." http://www2.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/entfactpdf/ef409.pdf H.Kuska comment: I grew about 1000 roses in a no spray garden. I used milkey spore, beneficial nematodes, and birdhouses / bird feeders. I did not eliminate Japanese beetles, but the population did reach an equilibrium that I could live with. Here is a link that might be useful: link to above information...See MoreJapanese beetles attack
Comments (39)They get worse every year, have been swarming but I noticed they pick certain spots on certain plants and blooms. I see by all the holes that I've missed a bunch, didn't go out for awhile. I tried the 2 inches of Dawn in a spray bottle, shook to mix it, and it worked. BUT I oversprayed a lot of places and damaged several plants, both roses and perennials. So no more of that but will try it on weeds, almost works like RU. So I had part of a bottle left of Bayer Advanced Rose and Garden Insect killer. I had four but swore I wouldn't use them any more on roses. But my cat got fleas bad and I couldn't afford much then and it has the same active ingredient in Advantage you put on the cat, just less strength. I sprayed the carpet and bad places with the Bayer and Adv on the cat, $10 a pop, vet asst told me it take four apps for the cat to mop up the fleas, she was right. Just have to get away and not let the cat near it til it dries, then it's ok although some spots I had to do 3 times. Darn cat knew where the fleas were and wouldn't walk through there and made sure to jump up on something high lol. The active ingredient is imidacloprid which kills bees. So I put on latex gloves, pruners in one hand and spray bottle in the other. Zaps them. If I spray a flower or get some on a nearby flower, I prune it right off and deadhead a little at the same time. I don't have to worry about the dormant roses they swarm on or rose leaves because bees usually only stop at blooms. I go out between 5 and 6, there are a few bees, but I haven't accidentally killed any. I like it because I can cover more territory faster, clip other stuff at the same time, aim further than I can reach, far fewer get away than they do from the soapy water drowning, and it's working better for me even though I know there are tons more up in my birch trees I can't reach. If you're still doing the soapy water, 3 swarms together won't work, but if they are swarmed in a rose blossom, I cup my hand over the blossom which keeps them from flying up, get the water underneath and tease them out of the bloom, most just drop right into the soapy water but I get petals in it and pick them out. terryjean, I don't know where you are in IL, but they must really be bad in Peoria County. I read in my Illinois Farm Bureau Farm News that the crops were showing signs of heat stress and no rain and that crop dusting planes were spraying for Japanese Beetles and also fungicide. I think with the wet spring, many farmers got their crops in late, the corn was at the silk stage, and too many beetles will get an ear with no corn. I was told the soybeans could take it. I shudder to think what they are spraying, probably something commercial grade, but it will kill all insects along with the beetles. Here they're doing all these hideous transgenic experiments with animals, saw a picture of a beagle puppy; it's white nose and light body parts glow red in the dark, for real, photo was on ABC news site, makes me sick. But if they could do something with the beetles like that where they wouldn't cross into the other insect population, I'd be all for terminating them. Sorry it's so long, spend a lot of time learning about different things. Too hot and humid this summer to enjoy much out there, then drought. Finally got some badly needed rain and now with the Bix weekend and RAGBRAI, we are having our 3rd flood of the Mississippi this year....See MoreUnusual behaviour of japanese beetles on blue spruce
Comments (13)There are plenty of folks with extensive education that are unable to solve life problems or lead people. They cripple under the pressure. Some of the smartest people I know don't have degrees. Anyhow someone answered your question on your previous post. When JB mate they congregate on the west side of plants....doesn't matter what they are. Feeding is a different story. So mystery solved. No one sprayed your spruce for cripes sake, lol. Bayer Multi Insect Spray will kill them (adult beetles) on contact. They may not drop dead instantly but they will die pretty kick. I just had to spray my Cupressina spruces. They were loaded with ants, a sure sign of aphids. Sure enough those buggers where everywhere. I don't spray willy nilly but I do when I need too. I do have admit the whole hit the spruce with a broom and catch them with a sheet was a silly suggestion for a plant with razor sharp needles. http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pests/msg0612304310652.html?4...See Morerubysees
5 years agowayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana
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5 years ago
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