Best type of glossy stain for tongue and groove patio ceiling
James Petty
5 years ago
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Anglophilia
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Need to decide what type ceiling for addition
Comments (16)Thanks jejtvr. I'll try to answer your questions. I don't have a view of that side of the house. It's the side, not visible from the street. The house is a rectangle there with gables on each end. The dining room will tie in as in my drawing, and it will be the only dining area in the house. We have 2 kids, only one living at home, and in-laws live nearby. There will be windows on the other two sides of the dining room, just not the north end. I couldn't put windows on the west side of that 3d plan because they blocked the view into the house. I showed the best overall pictures of the interiors of the two rooms that will adjoin this dining room in the OP. I'm not totally convinced beadboard on the kitchen ceiling is the best idea either, but I have been unimpressed by the drywall work we've had done in the past on both the living room and kitchen, and can see joint lines that should be smooth. That's probably why they used that popcorn texture originally. It's so much easier to see things that don't work in the houses of other people, and I don't want to make this house so odd that it will be hard to sell down the line. I've seen other people, including my mother, do that to their homes, and they don't see it at all. After they've done it, there's not much you can say except "enjoy it". Meanwhile I'm thinking what a chore it's going to sell it and that it will probably fall on me to do it. I'd like the dining room and kitchen to get a "Wow! this is great" reaction from buyers, not a "Whoa! how much is it going to take to fix this" reaction....See MoreHardwood Floors--Not tongue & groove
Comments (17)In the old days they scrubbed floors regularly with lye and other harsh cleaners. Daily cleaning involved strewing sand on them and sweeping it away. Many old houses had no subfloor. I certainly don't have any except where additional flooring was laid later. Although I have plastered ceilings in my first floor, many early homes had the planks of the second story floor visible from the rooms in the first floor. Going back to my comment above, if you can see ground through the cracks, you really should consider laying down some vapor barrier (on the surface of the soil). Unless you live in the desert, your building is taking up huge amounts of ground moisture and that will impact your comfort and the health of the house structure, in a big way. However, for floor finishes, there are a number of ways you can handle it without using poly, or stain. The simplest way is to clean them well (that's scrubbing on your hands and knees) followed by carefully drying them with rags. The next step is to remove any stains you want to shift (water, cat pee, etc.) This will raise the grain a bit, but it can be smoothed down by light hand sanding without impacting the established patina. Then you can seal the floors with a variety of things from tung oil to varnish to shellac. All of the above have pros and cons, but each is an historic finish. One of the advantages of doing this type of floor work is that it is relatively reversible (oil is less so, see below) and can be patched up in sections where necessary because of later wear, unlike poly finishes. Another advantage is that you may be able to avoid having the floors sanded, which will not only save you money, but preserve the thickness of the floor boards (they can only be machine sanded a few times before they must be replaced) and you will not lose the patina of old wood. You would be surprised how often people arrive here and report they are paying extra to install floors with artificially created patina. My personal choice is a pure tung oil finish followed by a coat of Butcher's wax. This is quite durable and easy to maintain. And if one of my cats has an accident the fluid stays on top for a bit and I can clean it up with no problems. (Cat pee, or any fluid, not cleaned up promptly will create a mark on almost any type of wood floor finish, including poly after it has had some use.) One thing to think about with tung oil finishes is that if you do choose that, you will have to sand the floors down before switching poly at some later date. This is somewhat true even for shellac and varnish which can get caught in cracks and interfere with the smooth flow and adherence of later poly coats. Keep in mind, too, that some "tung oil" finishes have only a small amount of tung oil and they are mostly polyurethane varnishes. I prefer pure tung oil. (You can read about it at the Real Milk Paint company website.) Some people who are allergic to nuts (peanuts, cashews, etc.) may also be allergic to tung oil which comes from a tropical tree. I'm not sure how much of an issue it is on floors, but it can be problematic to use it on kitchen counters, or at least I've seen reports of that being a concern. As for getting the smell of old cat pee out of unfinished wood: it's hard to do. The best product I've tried is something called Get Serious. It's for sale at PetSmart places and online. IMO it works better than the more commonly used Nature's Miracle. YMMV. One other caveat, I've seen reports that washing unfinished wood with Murphy's Oil Soap can lead to subsequent finish adhesion problems. I don't use it, so I'm not sure. However, FWIW, I once toured Montpelier in VA , the home of President James Madison, and I was lucky enough to be the only visitor that day so I got a behind the scenes tour of the restoration work in progress. And the highly skilled restorers were washing the floors with Murphy's. I live in a modest country-style Greek Revival farmhouse and I have great appreciation for simple, plain, buildings. Too often the grander houses are the ones that one sees or reads about. It warms my heart to hear about other plain houses getting the care they deserve as they tell a story of their own. You can't really go wrong trying to keep what you can of the old materials; repair rather than replace; and go slow so you don't wind up doing things that shouldn't have been done. If these 19th c buildings weren't solidly, if simply, built they wouldn't have survived into their third century. I try very hard to make sure that whatever I do is along the lines of careful maintenance of what I have, and when necessary, minimal changes at the same level of build-quality. I sure don't want future owners in 2108 shaking their heads at the penny-foolish and thoughtless "improvements" done under my care. Molly~...See MorePorch & Patio Ceiling
Comments (17)OH thank you very much. It is my first build, hopefully my last, but I think I am doing okay, well okay enough I guess. I decided that so long as we are happy... :-) My ceiling porch is just soffit. Plain ole vinyl soffit. Same stuff that goes around my porch under the roof but without the ventilation. I am not sure about the posts, except that I think they are not one solid piece, they are several boards nailed together .... I think... But I do know they will be wrapped in white of some sort. I guess a vinyl product but it has some wood grains I think, I can't really think or remember at the moment. My windows are ViWinTech. All I can think of at the moment is they have the argon gas, they were a little tinted but I had them tinted even more. The coloring in those pics is a little funky. My ceiling and trim is white. Siding is called Autumn Taupe. Stone on front is called Autumn Blend, with some white washed brick panels. 24 guage Medium Bronze standing seam roof. My railing across the back is this clear stuff... I am sorry that I am about brain dead this evening and I can't think of many details, but I wanted to see the pond and my horses and any other critters, so it is something along the lines of plexiglas but especially made for railing. HTH Here is a link that might be useful: Our Build in Pictures...See MoreTongue and groove Ceiling
Comments (9)before you install the t&g, know that it is very leaky. as our biggest heat loss is through the ceilings, sheetrock or tyvek behind the t&g is a reasonable/cost effective step towards air sealing this area. take care to air seal the sheetrock/tyvek at edges. while I love the look, it quickly became apparent when blower door testing homes with these types of ceilings that they are very leaky. the above are solutions for this issue. btw, I like just a clear seal to let the beauty of the wood show. and it looks really cool on the diagonal rather than straight runs. just my personal preferences. best of luck....See MoreJames Petty
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