homie, normally I would suggest posting your own topic, but yours happens to be very similar. The solution might not be, though. So far nobody has mentioned the idea that improper watering might be an issue. Once the bermuda seed is established and up high enough to mow, the watering should be changed. You need to determine how long it takes your sprinklers to apply one inch of water. Put some cat food or tuna cans in the yard and turn on the sprinkler. Time how long it takes to fill them. It might be many hours, so don't just stand there. Check every 15 minutes for the first hour and every half hour after that. When all the cans are full, stop your timer. That is how long you should be watering. Then, and this is the magic of proper watering, don't water again until the grass looks wilted. Never mind that the soil is dried up and cracking, watch the grass. As soon as any part of the grass looks wilted, water immediately for the time it took to fill the cans. Then watch it again until it wilts. It should go longer and longer every time you do this. The grass roots will grow deeper and will be able to pull moisture from deeper in the soil. You should be easily able to go a week or two between watering. When you have reached that point with the grass, weeds tend to dry up and blow away. New weeds can't happen because the seeds cannot germinate on the dry soil. THIS WORKS AGAINST NUTSEDGE, too. You might still have the nuts underground, but they will be dormant until the ground gets soggy for several days in a row (nutsedge is a swamp plant). There are some weeds which can survive this watering regimen. For those I would simply spot spray with RoundUp as a tough love approach. It will kill the surrounding bermuda, but the live bermuda surrounding that will quickly refill the dead spots.

Most of the weed killers will have instructions on the package regarding the best time to put them down. Most will require that the weed is actively growing for best results. Applying weed killer at over 85 deg risks doing damage to the grass. You probably are best spot weeding the broadleaf weeds. I have not done it, but applying multiple types of weed killers at the same time will likely over stress your grass. Out here crabgrass and Nutsedge starts to disappear in September. You might want to wait and let nature take its course. However, I am a right coaster; you should wait for a response from a more knowledgeable left coaster. Capt Tom

Like any other, similar, product the toxicity, whether it is a carcinogen, whether it will disrupt your reproductive system, or whether it is an endocrine disrputor is unknown due to a lack of adequate studies. Aside from that it is a very expensive product, not something the average homeowner really needs to spend money on. Very carefull application of this product on those "weeds" will be necessary since this is a very braod spectrum plant killer and will kill off, for a short time, anything it contacts. A similar product was sprayed on the "weeds" growing in our church parking lot 6 weeks ago and the "weeds" are growing in again.

Nutsedge & Crabgrass are pretty persistent weeds, so plan for a lifetime of treatment, not a cure. I use bonide Sedge ender because it's effective on both, easy to mix, easy to find & gentle on the Bermuda. If you've already bought quinclorac & Sedge hammer, then just keep in mind for the future. I would just spot spray the weeds for now & wait another month on the preM to avoid zapping any good seed. Just an abundance of caution, I would avoid broadcast application of anything (except fertilizer) for a while. You have plenty of time for weedkiller later, nursing the new grass is more urgent in my opinion.