My subfloor is not slab so I can do either. I had originally thought of doing solid, so I could refinish them, but I have a budget of $5/SF and this Bruce solid is the only one in my budget that is 5 inches wide. Alas, reviews of their solid floors seem quite poor, although I have not read any reviews specifically of their Kennedale line, which the store salesman tells me is very high quality. I have read that the engineered is better for wider planks. So that is one consideration. I also read that the Shaw finish is very durable and scratch resistant. I am hoping to buy a Roomba and have that sweep up every day, keeping dust to a minimum. The darker wood really sets off my white cabinetry well, somI prefer to go as dark as I can allow. Doesmany one own a Roomba and can speak to how well those work?

A high quality engineered floor will have the same or longer wear life as a solid wood floor. This isn't usually a big deal in residential as you are talking at least 45 years of life... Engineered wood flooring can cope with changes in moisture better than a solid wood floor, but if you have a good HVAC system and monitor the humidity in your home, both will be fine. Solid wood floors are not recommended below grade, for example in the basement. Our standard 5/8" thick engineered floor will give you 3-4 sand and refinishes. This floor can be glued to the slab and will line up with carpet and most tiles. This means you don't have to drop the slab (money saver!) or use transition pieces. Some areas where it is very dry have had issues with the thicker engineered floors (3/4" with 6mm wear layer) as the plywood base dries out at a different rate to the wear layer. One of our clients (Flooring installer) in Arizona is replacing engineered with solid as it handles that climate better. Since it sounds like you are doing a remodel, you are probably best to go with an engineered floor. A 5/8" thick engineered wood floor from our company has a 4mm wear layer and will give you 3-4 sand and refinishes. This you can glue to the slab and will take up around the same amount of thickness as the travertine did. This means you will not have to replace the trim, cut off the bottoms of doors etc. Typically a solid wood floor is installed on a plywood sub-floor. On a new build the slab would be dropped on those areas to allow for the extra thickness. A quality engineered wood floor is not inferior to a solid wood floor in anyway. Once it is installed you will not be able to tell the difference. If you have further questions, feel free to reach out! We are only a email or a phone call away -- debbie@woodco.com // (210) 298-9663 Keep safe! -- Debbie George | WoodCo www.woodco.com

"What do you recommend for installation?" A true rift and quartered solid 5 1/4" only needs to be nailed (I don't like staples) providing you have the relative humidity in check in all areas of the dwelling. No need for gluing. That reference comes from plain sawn (regular) hardwoods. "Not a professional, but much of the "engineered" hate seems to stem from the past." Thanks sprinkles. There are still a good number of 'old schoolers' out there too that only want the real thing. Take your time and understand the differences. There can be a lot to know.

@Celadon is right that the gray trend is behind us and has been for several years now. Do I take this right that you will be moving in 10 years? If so, I would keep the tile and save your money for improvements in your permanent retirement home. Also, I am in the middle of a home renovation and can tell you that the work required to prep a slab for wood flooring will be dusty, not to mention the demolition of the existing tile. You could end up with damages to other surfaces taking out that tile, and there will be dust all over everything to clean up. It just doesn't seem worth it when the tile you have now is so nice. If this were old tile or an odd color, then that's a different story, but it looks like you have a light neutral tile that is brand new.