Mr S - Ficus e. leaves can cup to decrease surface area in bright, direct sun, but if your artificial light source is other than metal halide or HPS, too much light is not the issue. In in situ situations, this plant spends its young years climbing over and through understory, struggling to reach full sun above the forest canopy. Only then, does it come into its own and thrive. NP - Any ideas? Could it be the water? Well, I have some thoughts. First, it "could" be watering or compaction issues (more in a sec), but I suspect a nutrient shortage or ammonium toxicity. There's not enough to go on, but what puzzles me is that atypical cupping of leaves most often indicates a nutrient shortage. It is however, unusual for a nutrient shortage to show up in both emerging and old leaves. A shortage of one of the mobile nutrients (macro-nutrients except Ca) will show up in older leaves, and a shortage of immobile nutrients (all the micro-nutrients but including Ca, a macro-nutrient) will be manifest in new growth. Will you look carefully again with an eye toward noticing if it really is all the leaves being affected? Too much water or compacted soil can definitely have an impact on nutrient uptake, and create a shortage, as can a rise in soil pH due to carbonate build-up from irrigation water. Both these conditions make iron, zinc, manganese, and copper less available for plant uptake. The curling of leaves IS consistent with a Ca shortage, but that should only show up in new leaves. Al

Could also be Mites . If you notice a rust color on the leaves it is most likey broad mites . Remove infected leaves and spray with a miticide or wettable sulfur .

Agree that it is herbicide damage but that is some poor looking soil too and why is there no mulching around the plants? Surely by now your soil has warmed enough to mulch. maybe the city was spraying the grass? Call the city. If so then insist on a warning next time so the plants can be covered. None of my other plants are affected (cucumbers, broccoli, etc). Tomato plants are 10x more susceptible than other vegetables. Other than that both neighbours have tall wood fences so I would imagine that would stop any kind of spray from traveling? Not at all. The many other discussions here about herbicide drift problems talk about drift patterns and the long distances it travels if you want to read through them. So ask the neighbors and insist on a warning next time so you can cover your plants. if you mixed one part vinegar and 3 parts water with dish soap and sprayed it on your plant it would get rid of them. That recipe is one of the standard weed killer recipes - 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water with 1 T dish soap - not a pesticide. The pesticide recipe is 1 T dish soap in 1 gallon of water (no vinegar) although it isn't usually listed as effective for caterpillars. One needs to evaluate the sources of such info carefully before using and to test on one plant before applying randomly. Is it possible that is what did the damage? Unlikely as the yellowing pattern of the leaves in pic 2 is classic Glyphosate damage. What can you do? Keep them well watered, mulch them. Trim off the worst of the damage, do NOT feed them until you see new growth, and then hope for the best. Sometimes they grow out of it. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: 2-4D weed killer damage on tomato plant pics

Many people spray fungicide weekly a preventive measure from the day their tomatoes go outside. It's no guarantee, but it can delay disease onset and lessen disease speed and severity so that you can get a good harvest from your plants. There are organic options. Re: "worms"--Btk (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) is a biological option that will take care of caterpillars (most "worm" pests on tomatoes are the caterpillars of moths) without harming anything else, as it's a very specific pesticide. If you have problems with "worms" in your fruits year after year, I'd spray regularly from when fruiting starts. I'd spray the whole plant, since a lot of caterpillars start off on foliage but start eating the fruit as well, but take extra care to spray well around the sepals at the top of the fruits as they develop, as that's where tomato fruitworm moths specifically like to lay their eggs. The caterpillars have to eat the Bt in order for it to work--it's not a contact poison--so if you don't get them right as they're starting to burrow into the fruit, you've missed your window. Once inside fruit, it's hard to kill them with anything. So regular application and refreshing the application after rain is important. To help out and attract bees, interplant flowering plants attractive and helpful to native bees and select the species so that there's always something they like flowering in your garden. IIRC, you are in Aus? (You might want to enter your location and zone in the "zone" field of the "advanced" profile options) I'm sure you can google "pollinator garden" for your specific region and come up with ideas on what to plant. If space is an issue, you can plant in pots and move them around as needed. Tomatoes need buzz pollinators, not honeybees, and IIRC buzz pollinators in Aus. are, like here in the US, usually ground-dwelling solitary native bees.