If you are talking about a window 3 feet or less in width, it's relatively easy. The complications arise with increased widths. The cost of the window itself is exactly the same, it's the labor factor. You don't want the lowest bidder to do the job. Casey

sounds like you don't have it locked down properly. i have had to set them really funny before to get the proper level. just adjust it down more than you think and see if it works.

As a general rule of thumb the municipal sewer line will run in a easement parallel to the public right of way (road or street) between the curb and sidewalk in the area we often refer to as the tree belt, however, if you live on a corner lot your house sewer may tie into the municipal sewer on either right of way frontage. In addition, in some regions the municipal sewer runs in an alleyway between lots at the rear of the lot. When in doubt call your local water & sewer provider and they can tell you the location and elevation of your tie in point, however, the answer they give you may be a bit confusing also. Some providers will tell you the depth below the center of the roadway or the depth below the top of the curbing. On the other hand, they may give you the depth below the U.S.Coast & Geodetic Survey Benchmark for your lot. The U.S.C.G.S. benchmark may be a couple blocks away and there could be some radical changes in average terrain between your lot and the benchmark. Normally your land title deed will have a site plat or your approved building site plan will show an index that shows the position of the U.S.C.G.S. benchmark and the reference elevation of average surface terrain at one specific survey stake on your lot. It is then the plumbers responsibility to "Shoot the grade" with a builders sight level to determine the depth of the sewer tie in and the minimum elevation of the finished floor where the lowest plumbing fixture will be located. All structures on slab are required to have a "Main Cleanout" approximately 3' outside the footer wall. You can get a "Best guess" estimate by locating the cleanout then measure the depth below grade of the sewer line at the cleanout, but be real careful here because there is no guarantee that the line won't offset upwards once inside the footer wall. Now before you decide to install an up-flush toilet you better do your homework. The code requires that we must size the building main drain and house sewer by the actual DFU (drainage fixture unit) load. Typically a house with up to 2.5 bathrooms will have a combined total DFU load of about 30 to 35DFU'd which would then be connected to a 3" line which is rated at up to 42DFU's if run with a 1/4" per foot pitch or 36DFU's if run with a 1/8th inch pitch. An up-flush toilet is technically classified as a "Sewage Ejection Pump". The codes require that we rate the DFU load of the pump by the output rate of the pump, however regardless of how small the pump is, the codes have established minimums that we must go by. By example, Under the International Residential Code we must compute for a minimum discharge rate of 14.2gpm and we must allow a minimum of 1.5DFU's per GPM therefore even though your up-flush toilet may have a smaller pump, we are required to allow 14.2gpm x 1.5DFU's for a minimum DFU load of 21.3DFU's. This 21.3DFU value must then be added to the actual existing DFU load of the structure to determine the total DFU load on the house sewer line. As you can see, while the actual DFU load of the structure originally required a 3" house sewer line, with the addition of the up-flush toilet you would then be required to upgrade the house main drain and house sewer line to 4".

I am thinking so! Lol Careful with goop on painted walls though, it can take off paint. I tried bleach first (all that did was mask it for a while) then a mix of baking soda and dish soap (a recommended cleaner for odors online, that didn't do much at all). I was looking around for another idea and saw the orange goop and tried it and it worked lol.