You do need to get the roots and but for now, you can keep cutting, and stay on top of it. It may still be getting energy (chlorophyll) from other parts that you can't see since you don't know where the plant originates from. An alternative is to take one of the vine sections and stick it in some herbicide in a container. That way, you only affect that vine. Leave it in there for a few days. You may have to repeat the procedure over the season or even for a few more years to come, but hopefully it helps to get the herbicide back to some of the originating roots.

fez920 ... yes, the black poplars here sure can turn the ground white with seed fuzz. Several years ago, a fire had zipped through a nearby area when someone had been burning debris and the poplar fluff became ignited, I guess the stuff is very flammable and the fire raced along as if gasoline had been poured on the ground. Had some radiant +8 C heat treatment occur the other day that did a fine job of clearing up most of the white stuff ... though, yet another 4" of thick "mildew" had fallen the past few days to cover up the nice green that had been showing. This post was edited by twrosz on Sun, Nov 23, 14 at 21:14

Now even I had to look up an acronym - SIL. ;-) Ok, so you have MS Works XLR & WPS files. The problems you are having - or going to have - is that Works is old, and the Office XP Pro your SIL gave you is also old, being actually Office 2002, version 10 of Office. If you don't have too many files, I think your best bet is to try an online file converter. Zamzar claims to be able to open and convert Works files. http://www.zamzar.com/ Save : XLR (spreadsheet) files to xlsx WPS (word) files to docx If you don't want to buy a new version of MS Office, try installing LibreOffice - the newer version of OpenOffice - and it will open xlsx and docx files [ If you want to stick with your SIL's MS Office XP Pro, then convert those files to xls & doc files, respectively. That version of Office is very old though. ] There are other ways of handling this, but probably if you you're going to try anything else, your best bet would be buy MS Works off Ebay or Amazon for $10 or so, open and convert all the files. Btw, you can't even open a .doc file in Office XP Pro ?? That's not a good sign - probably a sign of corruption. Btw #2 - When you say you can't open files, I take it they are on your current hard drive, and not within some compressed backup folder. That is, not within a zip file or the like. Re your backup cds : Can you load one of them, then rummage around in their files and tell us what you find ? (as in, names of files and extensions ?) Most likely they are proprietary formats, but if we know what they are, we could perhaps tell you how to retrieve them. Last, anyway you can get the hard drive back from the repair service ? Probably not, but it would be a second source of backup files. Let us know how it all works out.

This is from my husband: My husband checked and there was no water coming out of the condensate drain of the heat pump. He also turned off the whole house air exchanger. Still the air was being sucked through the whole house air exchanger. He tested this by holding a piece of paper up to outside vent and the paper was sucked onto the vent. Since the humidity outside has been running between 60-75%, it has been pulling all this humid air through the entire house and nothing is going back out through the condensate drain. All this humid air is staying in the house. We have two dehumidifiers running full steam, that are pulling about 10-11 gallons of water out of the house per day, still the humidity won't go below 50%. What we did (on our own) was to turn the air exchanger off and tape the vents so that no air could be pulled in. We then called the technician and explained all of this to him. The technician came today. Before he came, we un-taped the vent. He checked the freon. It looked ok, but he added just a tiny bit, for good measure. He pulled the cover off the air handler and there was NO water coming off the coils into the condensation pan. The temperatures on the heat pump while running were normal. He says he is coming back tomorrow and is going to put a damper on the air exchanger so it will only open when the air exchanger comes on.Until then he suggested that we tape the vent to the air exchanger closed, so as not to allow any air to come into the house. The technician never said why water was not condensing into the drain pan. My husband did ask him, but he evaded the answer, possibly because he didn't know, but my husband feels like he will come back with an answer tomorrow. The air temperature setting in our home, which is 69 degrees, has served to keep the house @ 69 degrees. My husband's theory is that possibly the air in our home is not warm enough to condense on the coils, thus it just passes on though to our house because the fan speed is blowing so hard and fast. My husband raised the temperature on our thermostats (we have three zones) to 72 degrees. With the two humidifiers going (one in the basement and one on the second level) and no humid air being brought through the air exchanger, it is his hope that we will be able to bring our humidity down. This is what my husband who, honestly is not expert here, has figured on his own and if it quite possible that he is onto something. MY thinking is that we paid over 24,000 for this and we should be having NO problems. And I would like your opinions. My husband feels that after doing what he did, which included taking one humidifier from the basement to the upstairs, that he has possibly stabilized the air to 50%. I feel like something much worse is wrong with the system that we should not have to be doing this stuff. Please submit opinions, and God bless you for all your responses. The people we have dealt with are such jerks,the owner hanging up on my husband when he tries t discuss something with him, scheduling us for appointments and then never showing to help us with this problem...It has truly been a nightmare. Also a question from me....does this mean that we will never be able to have our temps set below 72 again? I suffocate at temps over 70.