Lavanya T , we are getting fewer and fewer request for hand scraped floors. I think that look is also fading fast. Those options are very dark and will show every bit of dust or dirt. Have you considered a medium to natural finish?

Thank you I will look for medium natural wood.

That is the direction most colors are going. :-)

But it will still have wired scrapings or micro beveled. What’s the difference between beveled and micro beveled?

Wire bushing is still very popular. Bevels and micro bevels are just two sizes of the same thing. The bevel is to protect your foot from a sharp edge if the subfloor is not completely level. Its common to have bevels on prefinished floors.

The bevel is to protect your foot from a sharp edge if the subfloor is not completely level.

Get outta town, Oak & Broad...is that the truth?

;)

If the floor has a sharp edge thats not softened with a bevel or micro bevel and there is "lippage" or over under wood between planks it can be a problem. A site finished floor would be lightly sanded prior to finishing on site. That would keep this from happening. A prefinished floor on the other hand wont be as forgiving since those possible edges wont be sanded off on site.

what about this one?

https://shawfloors.com/flooring/hardwood/details/inspirations-white-oak-213sa/wilderness

One of the pros can correct me, but I believe three different products/finishes are being discussed here.

Engineered is like plywood with a layer of real wood on top. It comes pre-finished and can sometimes be sanded and refinished. It is good for basements.

Site finished is planks of real wood that are laid down, sanded and finished on site. It can be more expensive, but it has advantages. If the boards are thick enough, it can be refinished many times. We own a WWII-era condo with one-inch thick oak.

There is also prefinished hardwood. That sounds like one of the OP’s options (higher priced). It is real wood, but comes already sanded and finished, with a bevel, as described by O&B.

I would opt for prefinished oak (or hickory) in a light to medium natural finish, especially if you plan to live in the home for some time. Skip the wire brushing, grey or dark finishes.

I am probably jaded, but it seems that home builders often offer young and first-time buyers options that don’t make the best sense long term.

Hand-scraped is a look. It isn't scraped by hand as you might think. You could get someone to scrape real hardwood but the engineered flooring is hand-scraped by a machine.

@leelee: I wanted to know the difference between handscraped and wire brushing because those two are the options given by the builder no matter how up level we upgrade. In the picture above except the grey one other colors were cheaper. The recommendations and advice I’m receiving here for natural mid brown is offered by the builder but it’s very pricy. I think we might have to downgrade somewhere else like quartz countertop.

I second to the opinion given by “ latifolia” that builders offer young and first time home buyers options that doesn’t make sense in d long run.

Lavanya,,,where builders make their money is in all of the upgrades. they charge you an arm and leg for something that you could get later yourself, for 1/2 the price. For instance, I don't know what you're paying for the kitchen countertops. (or how big a space it is). but you could go w/a standard laminate, no upgrade cost, and after moving in, have someone else come out and do your quartz. Ditto flooring. have the cheapest floating laminate done, no upgrade charge, and then hire someone else to get the flooring you want.

Flooring is one of those things that you will be living with a long time. you shouldn't have settle or pick something you really don't want, just because you can't 'afford their upgrades'. Get the basic, move in, and hire someone else to do it.

wire brushed is just how it sounds.wire brushing across the surface along the grain. gives it more of a grainy appearance.

hand scraped is supposed to mimic the 'hand scraping' of the wood,,,giving it a rustic, uneven, hand made look to the wood.

@ Beth: Thank you very much. I will look for that aspect too. I mean to get basic things and get it done later. But some of my friends told me that there are certain things that are a pain to do later like countertops, plumbing stuff faucets, bathroom tile work and hardwood. Whereas carpet is easy to remove. So I was looking at the builder’s design centre choices for these things except carpet. But I will check outside local prices too. My kitchen is not very big I will attach model homes kitchen it’s the same I will get minus the decor :) Thank you.

I would never choose handscraped. Such an awful look - never have understood the appeal of it.

Lavanya, Beth is absolutely right, as are your friends, to some extent. Replacing carpet is quick and easy. If you haven’t put in a backsplash, countertops are not a big deal, and that’s the time to upgrade the sink and faucet.

So do the critical upgrades like insulation, which is behind the wallboard. Go basic on the rest. As Beth suggested, floating laminate is like carpet, in that it is not glued or nailed down.

You have the right idea: arm yourself with research. You may be able to get hardwood you love for the same price as the buider’s upgrade price for something you don’t love.

what's the basic, non-uncharge flooring option? carpet? if they aren't charging u any extra, take it. live w/it for 6 months, and research your wood flooring. There are many other better options. When u say expensive upgrade, and it's this Shaw stuff, I cringe. for that amount of money you could get a solid oak, stained and finished on site, and have it for the next 100 years!

Find out what they are charging you to upgrade to the quartz you picked. What's basic countertop w/no up-charge? laminate or a granite? if they're charging u 10K for that quartz, forget it. wait. if it's only costing you, say, 4-5K more, then that's doable.

Can you get a price sheet of all the upgrades and what they're charging you?

Another thing: if you do the builder’s upgrade and roll the cost into your mortgage, you will pay the price many times over. If you save up for six months and have the floors done, it’s paid for.

What are your cabinet options? That is an area it might pay to get better quality, depending on what the non-upgrade cabinets are.

There are std option in flooring, carpet, countertops etc. I have uploaded pics of level 2-level 4 hardwood and everyone here is saying they look dated so imagine how the std option would look. they are 3"wide planks tan or red color. For a level 4 they are charging 11k. Although our house will be 3200sq (2floors), but the whole upper floor will be carpet including family room, guest suite and study at the first floor. So only foyer, hallway,dining and kitchen will have wood. I feel 11k is too expensive for that. There are level 6 and 7 too with micro bevel natural shades of wood, walnut , maple, mahogany etc. for these levels there are so many color choices, but those are too expensive for us. Regarding the countertop quartz is 5k level 5. level 1 is std(free) with just 2 shades of granite slabs. Is armstrong a good option vs shaw?

@ latifolia: I have chosen painted linen solid raised panel Wyoming, slightly off white. its just one level upgrade. level 2 were same options as level 2 but more color choices and cushion hinges. Level 3-4 were solid recessed panel or raised panel mitered with cherry or maple choices. non upgrade cabinets are thermofoil in white and natural brown. i heard some bad reviews for thermofoil so thought to upgrade one level.

When we bought our current townhouse there were some builder grade thermofoil cabinets which fell apart in less than 15 years, so I think you made a wise choice there. When you say cushion hinges, do you mean soft close, as in Blum? Those are very nice, and pretty much standard in most cabinets. As Beth said, do you have the list of upgrade options with prices? Folks here can help you parse that list and give suggestions on where your upgrade dollars are best spent.