Goodbye closet and soffit, HELLO 3 stacked cabinets
diyher
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
1st photo is the original closet from 1994, hard to access shelves and all above the closet completely wide open but could not use it because of the door height.
The 2nd photo is 2018 the closet gone and 3 35" wide cabinets added.
Base 27" deep, 2 uppers (39" H and 14" H both 22" deep.
I will be adding 2 pocket slide doors on the counter area eventually.
I still have to order glass for the 6 uppers, but that can wait for now.
Kitchen updates 2012-2018 · More Info
Kitchen updates 2012-2018 · More Info
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Is this closet big enough for a full sized stacked washer/dryer
Comments (6)I am interested what you find out because former owner had W/D in upstairs hall (kids) bath and we moved it to basement since there was no room to actually store detergent, fold clothes, etc. Now we are remodeling and are struggling to find a place on first or second floor since we know it's better for resale (though we may not be selling for many years) Would it be on the order of $5,000 to run new plumbing into a closet? Is it worth it when we already have the plumbing set up in an alcove in the bathroom? Is it really better to take up MBR closet space than to put in a kids bathroom? There's absolutely nowhere on first floor we can fit a W/D....See Moreceilings too high. should i lower them? soffit?
Comments (44)The cabinet by the fridge in your first to the ceiling layouts is an issue. I see two options: hack an upper cabinet to match width of the lower so that cabinets on both sides of the window are stacked to the ceiling or (my preference) eliminate it totally and shorten the length of the cabinet on the other side of the window so the distance to an upper is the same on each side. I would also consider making a fridge cabinet that my fridge slid into so the cabinet material would encase the fridge on the sink side; that might also need to be a hack (I do not know if a fridge cabinet is an Ikea option). Even without the fridge cabinet, I would pull the cabinet above the fridge forward by installing a lower cabinet above the fridge ( another hack perhaps)....See MoreIs removing the soffit worth the expense/extra space?
Comments (61)I agree with everyone that you should remove the soffit. My last kitchen had a soffit which we removed, and we discovered a small plumbing pipe up by the ceiling in one section. We notched the back of two of the upper cabinets so that we didn't have to move the pipe. The cabinets went up to the ceiling. No one was the wiser about the notches and the pipe unless you opened that upper cabinet and saw it, but if anyone did, shrug. Idk if you can do that with a larger pipe in the way, but for that pipe it worked great. That small kitchen seemed to double in size once the soffits were removed, and also just looked more current. I think Buehl made a good point up above that crown molding can mask an uneven ceiling. As I understand it, pretty much everyone's kitchen ceiling is going to be uneven. I don't agree that it necessitates a thick crown molding to mask that. In that previous kitchen I had, which was so small, and had an uneven ceiling. We didn't have room, and also didn't like the look of, a thick crown molding. So it's all about a good contractor who has expertise. My contractor seemed to have no problem with the uneven ceiling and a 3" crown molding. If the OP prefers a thicker crown molding, then it will be that much easier for the installer. I just wanted to mention my experience....See MoreHelp!! Kitchen Soffit Nightmare!
Comments (51)It looks like the duct running above the window is only feeding a single register, is that right? If so, there may be a way to replace that larger duct with two smaller ducts, or install an in-duct fan in a single smaller duct to provide the same airflow through a smaller diameter duct. If the duct and the sofit could be reduced to a 7" x 7" size, you would be able to put furring and crown along it to match the 7" furring above the uppers. What room upstairs is getting that heat? If is is a bathroom, you could consider in floor heat or some other heating option and take out the duct entirely. Also, if it is a larger room, is there a reason that the register has to be above the window? Could the register be above the point where the duct run goes vertically up the wall? Could the duct run all the way to the ceiling of the second floor and provide heat from above instead of from below? Drywall and duct modification should not be a huge expense after the fact, but if there is a way to heat that room without the register in that location and do it now, I would strongly suggest it. Otherwise, have them at least take out the portion of the soffit where the duct is missing and make the soffit only as wide as the duct, not the full 12", so you have less to repair later....See More
chickadee2_gw
5 years agodiyher
5 years agodiyher
5 years agothis is the left side of the fridge. There used to be a small desk with 1 drawer that was 8 inches less, 34 instead of the 40" wide now.
I have 2 other cabs for the middle, but u started painting them today, so I slid them out
diyher
5 years ago
Emily U
5 years agotuckerdc
5 years agodiyher
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agotucker, I noticed that too, even if I copied one on Facebook and pasted it here like I can if I go from Facebook to Twitter ->> <<- I just pasted one and I can see it now, let's see what happens when I hit submit ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
diyher
5 years agodiyher
5 years ago
PROStecki Construction
5 years agodiyher
5 years ago
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