Flooring threshold transition help needed, please!
We (had someone) recently install unfinished engineered hardwood flooring in our lower-level family room. We are having difficulty figuring out how to transition from the new hardwood to the low-pile carpet that is in the doorway which leads to the stairs for the sub-basement.
We asked our installer and he said we needed to figure it out and he will do it. My opinion was that the carpet should have been pulled up just a few inches so that wood could be put under it to raise it to the same level as the new hardwood, then do a T transition strip. Our installer repliereplied "no", but offered no suggestion other than "metal". (Yeah, we won't exactly be repeat customers. This was an error in judgement but we need to plow through it best we can so we can move in and be done with it.) Please see attached picture...anyone have any idea what we can use here? I appreciate any suggestions. Thank you!!
Comments (9)
User
5 years agoDo you know a woodworker? It would be a simple matter for a woodworker to use excess flooring to make the reducer Oak & Broad referenced. Then when stained/finished, it matches.
Kinda like this:
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need help choosing wood flooring with granite threshold.
Comments (2)The sunroom was an addition to the kitchen and the floor unfortunatley is not even. We've already installed the 3/4" plywood to make them even. The floor would still be a 1/2" higher when we reach the sliding glass doors. We would have to remove the sliders and build the floor up, its more work than we want to do, which is why we have the 2" stepdown. We're leaning towards the dark bamboo....See MoreTransition between marble threshold and laminate flooring
Comments (1)Schluter with a T mold....See MoreUtility/pantry flooring and transition? Help please!
Comments (10)I like the idea of a click-together floating vinyl tile in a bit of a checker pattern (tone on tone will look very handsome). It will keep the idea of your current flooring without actually going out and finding the same tile. Now, the technical side of this gets super interesting. The garage slab is DIFFERENT from the house slab. That means weird things will need to be done to get everything all ready for flooring. Shall we assume you have already leveled the garage floor with lots and lots and lots of new concrete? Excellent. Garage slabs are notorious for being dirty and "wet" (they allow HUGE amounts of moisture to move through them because they were never designed as living spaces. You are welcome to "float" a floor over the properly flattened slab. You will have to use a vapour barrier (I'm assuming you did not go whole hog and pay a SCHWACK of money to have the garage slab sealed and then flattened). The plastic vapour barriers are easy and low cost. And for that reason the click together variant would be your best bet. To get ANYTHING to "glue down" to an old garage slab is a huge technical slurry of problems that need expensive fixes. Because everything will be refloored in a few years (kitchen and pantry) I suggest you work with cheap and cheerful vinyl click tiles and keep going with the rest of the project. Please do not expect the LVT you use today to be available in 5 years from now. Traditionally these man-made floors only have a 24 month shelf life and then they are gone - never to be seen again....See MoreHelp! transition threshold ????
Comments (13)I would look to the designer and ask how this situation came about. A General Contractor isn't a designer. A tile setter isn't a designer. A Kitchen/Bath Designer should not have allowed this. A curbless shower is a SPECIAL process. It requires a SPECIAL set of solutions (which are very expensive and very time consuming). And the proper approach/plan needs to be done BEFORE a boot steps foot in the space. Photos of what you HAVE would be VERY helpful. Most likely you will need to continue the tile you have in the shower...but it depends on what is there and how you have set up the space. And where is the HIGH-END tile setter in this situation? Why was this not flagged BEFORE?...See More
PROCinar Interiors, Inc.
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
The carpet should not have been cut back so far and the wood should be cut straight across, not jagged like how it's shown in the photo. A simple Z bar would have fixed this issue without having to purchase a wood transition that could break over time due to people stepping on it. And yes, it can break if one side of the transition is on the wood (hard surface) and the other side is on the carpet (soft surface). The soft surface will allow flex in the transition which will cause it to crack and break.
A Z Bar is installed under the carpet and allows one end to be tucked leaving a clean finish bumping up to your wood.Photo shows carpet to tile but gives you an idea of the finished layout.
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Cinar Interiors, Inc.
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Oak & Broad