90s Wood Trim and Cabinets
6 years ago
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Comments (7)
- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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To paint the yellowing maple cabinets or not?? How to update this 90s
Comments (10)A reference was made to changing your lighting. To clarify, certain lightbulbs can affect the color / tone of cabinets / walls / floors. You may want to try out different warmth levels of LED bulbs to see if any reduce the yellow tone. When you change the bulbs, wait a few days to get accustom to the change before trying a different bulb. I found the daylight bulbs helped make my (oak) cabinets look browner, but when I first put them in, the kitchen seemed too bright. That feeling passed in a week. I like my wood cabinets, and I think yours are pretty. However, maple does paint up well - much better than oak, and maple does get more yellow over time - not just the finish but the wood itself. I would look into what a specialized cabinet painter has to say rather than a house painter. I also agree that gray and warm wood tones do nothing for each other. The grays became popular when white and dark wood cabinets were popular. Warm toned cabinets are increasing in popularity and with this has come a decrease in the use of cool grays. Light grays - often a white with a gray undertone or green grays can work with maple, though I personally prefer whites and creams - and I do like the green / grays too - just don't like cool grays much. The large expanse of cream / white tile with the green gray works well with these cabinets, which I think are maple: These walls look to have a slight gray undertone (can only see over the window treatment) but the light backsplash is very pretty:...See MoreUpdating 90s floor/trim/doors in a 1966 home
Comments (7)First things first: find out the species of your wood floor. We don't have very many room shots of the floors...which makes figuring out the COLOUR they will become once sanded/finished in a CLEAR COAT finish. What you are seeing right now is not a 'stain'. It is oil based polyurethane that has ambered (turned orange) just by aging. I would say there is NO stain on the floors. They are a birch (maybe maple....TOO HARD to tell from these slices in the photos) with a finish over top...no stain. The floor colour will drive the rest of the house. And yes...those floors in the kitchen are the very reason why we tell people NOT to put fake wood next to real wood. And the person who did it is probably colour blind. The clash of colours is enough for me to scratch my eyes out! But I digress. Personally I would find out the floor species FIRST. Then I would get a hardwood flooring professional to come in and offer a quote for the purchase of 'more' of the same wood (in the same cut, width and grade) and the cost to lace in the two floors and refinish them. That's going to be your 'big budget' ticket item. That will tell you what's left in the bank account. Painting out the trim is going to be a pain. The HEAVY graining of the red oak = doesn't look good when painted. I would assume you will need to remove/replace the wood trim unless otherwise convinced that something awesome could be done with them. I doubt it. Much of the trim looks like a patch-work-quilt that has been done a different times with different species of wood and different finish at different times with different skill levels. The doors on the other hand are a different story. If they are solid core, then they are worth a bundle. I would keep them and try to find a shade of stain or paint that would look handsome with the FINAL look of my floors. If you find out you have a VERY PALE wood underneath the orange oil based finish you might discover how pale they are when finished in a high-end two part water based finish (ahem...do NOT go with oil based finish or else you will simply end up with the same colour of floor = bright yellow/orange). I've seen Birch and Maple as well as red and white oak look as pale as wheat or dry sand. It is a markedly different tone compared to what you have now....See MoreWhat color backsplash to help my 90s oak cabinets look better?
Comments (24)The counters look like they may be Corian, or a similar product. Although they do not do much for the wood of the cabinetry, perhaps, since they would be a significant cost to replace, use them as the basis for your design. I’ll suggest something rather daring, which is to add a deep periwinkle blue to the color scheme. Make sure to bring several paint samples home and hold them next to the countertop in different parts of the kitchen to see how it looks both in daylight and nighttime electric lighting. Paint any part of the wall you don’t tile including above the cabinetry. Honestly, if it was my personal kitchen, I’d paint the cabinets that color. You could paint them all, or a slightly lighter shade of the same color or white, just on the uppers is another option. Oak has a texture to the grain that “telegraphs” through the paint, and so you might want to experiment to see if you liked that, or the other option is to add the periwinkle blue to everything else, walls and backsplash. If you put up a tile backsplash, you MUST ABSOLUTELY remove the small existing backsplash first. Not to do so would be a mistake. If lie the idea o the color periwinkle, but are not sure about tiling or painting the cabinets, leave the corian backsplash, and paint the walls that color as a first step. I am certain you could find a pretty ceramic tile, perhaps a subway tile but with a deep bevel, to lend some interest, but look at other shapes and even combinations of tile. If you keep the cabinets the natural wood tone, do a periwinkle backsplash, but a white backsplash with periwinkle painted cabinets would be pretty, Here’s a white one from Lowes:...See MoreRemodeling 80s/90s house. What to do with honey oak?
Comments (25)As the colors are rendered on my computer, it looks like you did a good job choosing a cabinet stain that plays well with the honey oak. I don't mind the combo, really, and think that a wise choice in wall paint would help to pull it together more. I wouldn't say that one should never have different colors in adjoining spaces like yours, but they do need to match in warmth and tone. I don't think the kitchen and adjoining room do. You do have to work with the very pretty counter, though, which seems to have some cooler gray in it, and the backsplash perhaps even more? Look for a warmish-neutral greige that works with all the elements. Getting a color consult, if you have a local chain (like Sherwin Williams) that offers one, might simplify things. Even if you paint the honey oak, I think that you will still need to then work on unifying the rest of the elements with a good wall color. The brick doesn't bother me either- to my eye it is fairly neutral, even with the reddish tone - red can be a neutral when subdued like yours is....See MoreRelated Professionals
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