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Coincidence? Maybe, but I'm liking sour orange rootstock.

5 years ago

Hi guys,

Since a lot of us are growing in northern climates I thought I'd share an interesting observation early in the growing season. A challenge I run into in my climate is cool evenings (even in July and August we get down into the mid 50s most nights) - typically, it takes a while for things to warm up to our summer highs in the 70s and 80s. Most varieties of citrus don't seem to do much of anything below 70 degrees, so I'm always looking for anything I can do to help my collection grow.

Anyway, I added a bunch of trees to the collection this year and a couple of them were on sour orange rootstock from Harris citrus. Of 8 trees added to my collection this year (plus two that over-wintered), here's are the scion / rootstock combinations that have flushed with new growth and those that haven't:

Bearss Lemon on Sour Orange: Flushed a week ago.

Harvey Lemon on Sour Orange: Flushed 3 weeks ago.

Sour Orange on Kinkoji: Flushed 2 weeks ago.

Yuzu on C-35: Flushed 4 weeks ago, has already grown a foot, flowered, and set fruit.

Sudachi on C-35: Flowered but hasn't flushed.

Meyer on Rich Trifoliate: Nothing.

Smith Red Valencia on C-35: Nothing yet, but this tree only arrived a week ago.

Rangpur on C-35: Nothing.

Xie Shan on C-22: Nothing.

Calamondin on Kinkoji: Nothing.

The common pattern seems to be sour orange, which seems to be willing to grow or push nutrients at lower temperatures than other trees. I've tried to grow lemons (mostly FWG Meyers, but also a FWG Santa Teresa) and a limequat (on volk rootstock from Harris) but those didn't survive the winter and they've never flushed this early.

So, to make a long story endless, I'd definitely recommend sour orange as a rootstock for those in cooler / northern that are grafting up their own trees or ordering from Harris citrus. I'd definitely also recommend giving Yuzu a try as a rootstock for sour citrus.

I know 3-4 trees and one season isn't much to jump to conclusions on, but I thought I'd share my experiences anyway and see if anyone had similar experiences in their own growing.

Featured Answer

Vladimir (Zone 5b Massachusetts)

5 years ago

I know what PT and FD are. I just did not understand what Steve said. Thanks for explaining, Steve.

Comments (12)

poncirusguy6b452xx
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Anything with PT in it will start growing later than non PT rootstocks. I agree that Seville is the best rootstock for northerners for potted citrus.

Steve
Vladimir (Zone 5b Massachusetts)
5 years ago
Steve, I don't understand what you said about PT and FD. Please explain.
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poncirusguy6b452xx
5 years ago
For planting in ground in 8a or colder PT and FD are the only logical choce because they go dormant and remain dormant for a long time until a long warm spell hits. this protects against frost damage in spring.
PacNorWreck
Original Author
5 years ago
Vladimir,

Apologies if you already got this but PT is Poncirus Trifoliata and FD is flying dragon.
poncirusguy6b452xx
5 years ago
Vlad

I completely missed your question meaning on PT FD. I had bad English in my post that was misleading and I set out to correct what I was trying to say instead of defining PT/FD
tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
5 years ago
Curious to know: What is the advantage of grafting Yuzu, Sour Orange and Rangpur on some other rootstock when they themselves are used as rootstocks? Calamondin should also do fine on its own. I am guessing for nursery production it makes it easier to propagate in larger numbers when you have existing rootstocks in hand.
poncirusguy6b452xx
5 years ago
Most citrus trees will produce better fruit on sour orange roots than they will produce on their own roots.
nikthegreek
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
'Curious to know: What is the advantage of grafting Yuzu, Sour Orange and Rangpur on some other rootstock when they themselves are used as rootstocks? '

1. Early maturity. Trees become productive fast

2. Not all stocks are good in all and the same conditions

3, Bulk propagation from buds. Hundreds of trees can be produced from one mature mother plant each season.
tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
5 years ago
Thanks Nik for your thoughts.

"1. Early maturity. Trees become productive fast"

I would say air layers will do that the fastest. You can even air layer with fruits on it.

"2. Not all stocks are good in all and the same conditions"

For containers it should not matter that much - would it? I thought it would matter for in-ground plants. Many desired varieties are weak on their own roots and it would make sense to graft. But grafted sour orange, calamondin, etc makes less sense to me in a container.

"3, Bulk propagation from buds. Hundreds of trees can be produced from one mature mother plant each season."

No argument with that. I stated the same.
johnmerr
5 years ago
The best rootstock is the one that works best for you.
nikthegreek
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
'I would say air layers will do that the fastest. You can even air layer with fruits on it.'

They will need to produce a supportive root system first. Stocks have that already. When changing a variety in an orchard one can expect some fruit bearing the year after the graft on the mature stock.

For containers it matters less but it still matters.

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