If you just want to clean up the floor so you can put down other floor coverings, I would have it cleaned, degreased, and primed, then put down a feather coat of self-leveling concrete (SLC). That will level out all the divots and other imperfections. However, many garages are built with a slope toward the middle and toward the door for drainage, and using SLC will get rid of that slope. It might be more complicated than you expect. On top of the concrete you can put tile, or a pad and carpet that can be taken out by a future owner. If you want something simple and very easy to maintain I would consider higher quality sheet vinyl that is only glued on the edges. Since its on top of cold cement it won't be especially warm, but it should be okay in your climate. If you insulate properly you should be able to heat/cool with a mini-split AC/heat pump unit. However, you need to have enough electrical amps to run the unit, and most garages only have 1 or 2 household circuits. You may end up running new electric to a garage subpanel, which won't be a cheap electrical task in your area. That will be the case for any type of electric heat you use. Another complication others have found when you install HVAC in a garage is that some cities then apply all the residential code rules to that garage. It can get expensive to seal the large garage door and windows so that it meets all new residential code for insulation, air infiltration, etc. I assume you probably also have to meet electrical requirements for GFCI's, AFCI's, etc. Bruce

^In both plans immedialy above, you could change the swing on the front door so you have a better view at the entry. You could also put up a small wall, half or full, to get that foyer entry. Something interesting.

Do you mean to convert the auto area in the garage to a habitable room, or do you mean convert the overhead truss space to a habitable room. Your description is confusing. First step: check with your local jurisdiction to see if your zoning requires two enclosed or covered parking spaces. Don't do anything which would make your house nonconforming to local zoning. Second: any "habitable room" in the existing truss space is going to be very small and not really usable. More importantly, it will have to be insulated, heated, cooled with electrical power added. Will you need water supply and waste lines as well? How will you access the overhead space? Will there be interior or exterior stairs? The expense of all of this makes it very questionable as a cost-effective project, IMO. You will certainly need an architect or structural engineer to inspect the existing conditions to see if your project is feasible or even possible. Good luck!

Be sure the concrete man understands you want the floor finished smooth…then after stain… add a clear coat sealer for a pretty durable…shiny finish..it is also necessary to make striations in the concrete to prevent cracks as it settles…also keeping in mind the added weight may require more support than a regular floor …even if you have a slab foundation it will be wise to add re- bar into the slab to prevent big cracks…the green is my favorite of any of the choices…over time added liquid wax will keep it shiny if needed….my favorite floors ever in our home