You might try the Appliances or Kitchen forum.

I'm reading this in the Appliances forum, Ron. With the houzz tag system you can post in up three forums at once.

3. Does anyone make a 24 inch range with induction cooktop?

Not for the US, no. The only thing smaller than 30" is an Aga 20" unit with a single induction hob, but it's meant to be an add-on, not a standalone.

If you want 24" you'll need to do cooktop over wall oven.

Miele has 24" cooktops. Or you can get bits and pieces of the modular system (~11-12" width) to have induction, gas and IR. Not cheap though.

Friends of my life in a flood zone in Germany. They installed all their outlets about 3' from the floor. If the bottom floor gets flooded only a little bit, power stays on. If it gets flooded a lot, they can turn off all the power for the bottom floor and wait until everything is dried out properly until turning it back on. Major floods happen on a pretty regularly basis (every ~10 years).

Outlets close to the floor are great for stuff that gets plugged in and stays plugged in like table lamps and stuff on nightstands. In addition to that, who wants to look at a bunch of outlets and a cords hanging down in their line of sight all the time?

The other side of the coin is what a pain it would be to bend down to plug in a kitchen appliance, for example every time. It is obviously only a thought exercise, but if kitchens did not have outlets above counters, they'd be installed high next to those counters anyway. We have 120V outlets for washers and gas dryers mounted high and for plugging in irons in laundry rooms. We're kind of stuck for things like the vacuum cleaner because the outlets anywhere but the above examples are for lamps and whatnot. A vacuum cleaner outlet in every room might be a slick idea. Maybe that is why my wife does not like to clean. She certainly does not like to bend over placing her head and shoulders near the floor.

In laboratory situations, the original construction most often has wall outlets for coolers and large, floor-located equipment low. The electricians always want to add them low as well. I make a point to ask for the box about 4 feet off the floor. It is not so much so it is easy to reach. It means that after we plug em in and start to roll them toward the wall, the wheels don't get hung up on the cord as easily or at all.

Several times In un-modernized houses built in the 1920s and 1930s, especially in dining rooms, I've seen receptacles mounted at chest height or so. Maybe they were for plugging in toasters or other cooking appliances -- just guessing. Often I saw only 1 or 2 other receptacles in the entire dining room.

In the 20s, urban electricity was, maybe, a new thing and ,perhaps, something to conspicuously display. For the very curious, a look at what appliances were available at the time may hold clues. It took FDR and the REA to take it to the farmers. I have The round waffle iron that my mom says was the first ( high voltage AC) appliance that they had on the farm . I’ve got to open it up and see why give me shocks and see if I can fix it .

Don't leave us hanging! Where are the pictures of the inside of that appliance?

Just so you know, the insulation on the internal wiring and power cords of those old heating appliances usually contained asbestos. Often it's deteriorated and potentially friable.

I personally don't worry about such a small amount of intermittent asbestos exposure, but some folks do.

It has been on my shelf for some time and out of service to decades. I doubt I will get to it soon. Thanks for the reminder on the asbesdos. I have the same perspective. I take reasonable precautions, and forge ahead. A little water aerosol, a face mask, and covering the bench ought to do it. . Deteriorated insulation is exactly what I will be looking for