Here is a useful article and cuts through some of the BS on the label. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use   I have not looked in a while, but last I did, Watco Danish Oil was about 6/9 mineral spirits, 2/9 boiled linseed oil, and 1/9 varnish. So it's a thin oil-varnish blend. In another writing, Flexner pooh-poohs Watco's claim that it "hardens from within" -- first, it does not soak in all that much and second, BLO is a soft finish when cured. Many people roll their own oil-varnish blend with equal parts thinner, oil, and varnish as the above article suggests. A very common practice. If you want difference, alter the proportions up or down. But you should not try to build much film with an oil-varnish blend as the oil will keep the film soft. They're designed to be wipe on-wipe off. If you put a puddle of an oil-varnish blend on a piece of glass and let it cure, you'll see wrinkling around the edges(oil effect) and smoother in the center (varnish effect) The higher proportion of oil, the more wrinkling. As far as how varnishes are made, you add a resin (phenolic in the case of Waterlox, alkyd and/or urethane in other cases) and an oil (tung oil in Waterlox, linseed or soy oil in others) It's heated and becomes a varnish. It's not oil and resin any more, just as when you bake bread it's not flour, water and yeast anymore. You can't separate out the components, but you can determine the attributes based on ingredients, just like you can tell white, rye and whole grain breads apart. Waterlox is a varnish, plain and simple. In the dozens of pages at waterlox.com where they talk about "tung oil finish" (playing on the tung oil mystique), there is one line that says, "We view our Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes as varnishes, and while many make untrue product claims, Waterlox has never made any claims that we manufacture anything but a varnish." https://waterlox.com/Support/Guide?id=55d7f899-9e95-430b-9788-6ee59ed27e30&q=

@Amy Molina thank you for advising. your color really is beautiful!!! i just selected last monday chestnut/classic. it did not appear to have any of that red orange showing through - just a nice neutral brown color. in my opinion, it is like a special walnut but greatly improved. special walnut was a yuck! color on my floor showing orange and the grains too bold. classic gray is the ticket to modernize a color if looking for a brown. its just finding the right brown that is tricky. now i am just hoping i selected a dark enough brown - yoir looks great! they come and do ours tomorrow in the official color.

I had tile in my last home, my sister had hard wood in her last home and my other sister had tile and carpet in her home. All three of us went with LVT/LVP in our current homes. Susie was the first, about 15 years ago. She did a grouted, stone look tile. It has stood the test of time and she loves it. I bought my home about 4 years ago and loved Susie's flooring. I knew that tile was hard on my joints and wood would be a problem with my dog. I did a ceramic tile look LVT and love it. My third sister is just moving into a new home in June and picked wood look LVP for her new home. I know some people who need to have hard wood or engineered wood and wouldn't be happy with anything else, but for ease of cleaning and care along with the price I have to agree with Patricia.

You could ask the flooring guy to give you a new sample, now that you know the first one is too pink. You would do that if you want to preserve the parquet. Or you just remove the parquet and replace with whatever you want. You still want to see samples. Be sure that the samples have the top coat, and not just stain, so you can see the true final results.