Heliconia schiediana? Here is a link that might be useful: image 6th from the left is my Heliconia schiediana

Are you thinking that you can go back to Contractor B and say "I only want to buy 600 sf, will your install price go down?" I doubt it, but you could ask. You need to compare total costs between the 2. If your material cost is $5/sf, then: Contractor A: materials: 600 sf @ $5/sf = 3000 labor: 935 total = 3935 Contractor B: materials: 675 sf @ $5/sf = 3375 labor: 928 total = 4303 So using Contractor A will save you $368, but you will have more potentially left over at the end. BTW, keeping extra for future repairs is a good idea. My experience with installing hardwood is that wastage is pretty small, since you can use the off cut from the end board as the starter on the next row. Or else you can find a board that only needs a couple inches cut off to finish up a row. 10% was more than enough on our floors. Contractor B, who says buy 20% either isn't a very good installer or doesn't trust the wood you're buying.

anything different from a 6 panel pine door is pretty expensive. a lot of times starting at 300 plus a door I don't know specifically about red oak. you could ask fr a breakdown of labor and materials if you want.... Get another quote. it will ease your mind.

It has to be 'extra' because it can range from minimal moulding to huge, thick moulding. Standard will get you just enough trim to cover where two surfaces meet: Wall and ceiling; Wall and door or window cut-outs; Wall and floor. MDF *may* be fine as ceiling moulding if you don't have extreme heat/cold seasons where it swells/shrinks. You don't want it in high traffic areas. BTW, I love our MDF interior doors; only do them if you will be painting them. They are solid, quiet -- and required three sets of hinges (36" wide doors).