Do you really want your view from the family room into the kitchen to be a wall of tall, towering, cold lineup of stainless fridge/freezer/ovens? Wouldn't you rather put the cooktop with a really cool hood there instead? Also, as others have mentioned, your island is way too wide for the space. The length seems OK. To be honest, I would give up at least the twins for a standard 36" wide fridge, and possible do a range instead of cooktop and wall oven too. But, I like a challenge so I have thought out an option that leaves you with every appliance plus about 30" of pantry space. :) Here we go... What I would do is redistribute the appliances so that left wall is not so ugly. I would put the range with a nice hood on the left wall, with the wall ovens down towards the bottom of that wall. I would put the fridge on the end of the sink wall which will give you a pretty nice work triangle, although the island is a bit of a barrier and the DW is in the way. If you want, you can swap the ovens and fridge at this point and add a prep sink to the left end of the island. The freezer is accessed less often so I would put it on that 72" pantry wall with a 30" side tall pantry cabinet next to it. At this point you have no nearby landing space for the fridge or pantry - but do you really need it for frozen or room temp items? I don't think so, but if you think you need it you can swap out 15" of the pantry space for 15" of countertop next to the freezer on whichever side the freezer opens to. Either way I would not go less than 48" for the top aisle, 42" for the bottom aisle, and 42" for the left aisle. This means your island can only be 27" wide, which means: a) just the base cabinetry (no seating), or b) just counter with no cabinetry underneath (seating allowed on both sides), or c) 12" deep base cabinetry (standard depth is 24") plus an inadequate seating overhang of 12" (recommended minimum is 15", your sitters will be uncomfortable, or d) 12" deep base cabinetry (standard depth is 24") plus an adequate seating overhang of 15" (which will reduce the bottom aisle to 39" - would not do if you put the fridge on the left wall, since that will then be a major traffic aisle), or e) some combination of the above a-d. Personally I would do one or two base cabinets at the left end of the island (option a) and then extend the countertop on legs, with no cabinetry beneath (option b) to allow for the seating that you want. I hope this helps!

We are located in central FL the front of the house faces east, side porch faces south. The western side of the house is heavily forested. Heavily forested still won't keep the west sun from the back of your house. So let me get this straight, the best elevation to allow light and sun in without the extra heat of west and east elevations is south. Yet your south elevation has a closet, a mudroom type entry and a guest bedroom. I'm also in FL. SW FL to be exact. I oriented my house so front faces north and back faces south. I have large eaves (32" wide) that let in the filtered sun this time of year and when I was at my house 2 weeks ago, the outdoor temps were in the mid 90's (before the rains came). Inside the house, even with windows but no insulation yet, there were nice cross breezes and it was actually quite bearable. Sofar we have decided to make the following changes: Move the fridge to the sink side of the kitchen on the outer edge Re-resize the shower to 42x60 for proportionality. Squaring up the roof and adding an open gable over the side porch. And... Rename the "office" to "entry". Yes all good starts but not enough for the overall flow of the house that mrspete keeps mentioning. Im not super concerned about where the towels are hung, we hang them to dry after we use them. We set a dry towel and clothes on the bathroom counter prior to bathing. And in reality unless you have a towel in the shower with you or can reach one from the shower, water will get on the floor. So let me get this straight. You're spending big bucks and/or your hard earned time creating this house for you and the Missus but instead of working out even the smaller details, you just don't care? It's not important for your overall comfort and making things easier on you? What's the point of building if it's not to take what you've learned and make things better for you for now and into the future? As for water getting on the floor, there's a big difference from reaching next to the shower to grab a towel on a hook and having to step completely out of the shower to walk across the aisle to grab a towel on a bathroom counter. One creates about 3 drops of water and the other requires being careful so you don't slip on the wet floor. Thats what bath mats are for. And these are the things that will not help sell your place if you ever have to sell. High ceilings and the elevator shaft feeling I will take into consideration. I love high ceilings. My first floor will be 10' in the main rooms and 9' in the hallways. Upstairs will be 9'. My house is 2870 and the height works with the size of the house. What happens is when the ceilings become too high, it actually then makes the rooms feel smaller. There's a balance between just right and too high. In general I enjoy high ceilings and am a bit more comfortable with slightly higher than average ceilings for the size of the space than usual. I think 10' in the main rooms and 9' in the bathrooms and hallways will work fine in your case. The other added bonus by making the hallways 9' is that when you walk from the smaller space into the larger space, it makes the larger space feel even larger. It's a visual trick Frank Lloyd Wright used in most of his houses to great effect. Im also not too concerned about storage, we really take de-cluttering seriously. To be fair storage for a mop, broom, and vacuum "was" lacking but with the relocation of the fridge we have room for a large vertical cabinet on that "wall of storage". And how about the few coats, raincoats, shoes, etc you have? Even in Central Fl it gets cool. But for mundane "every day" things, asside from clothes and shoes, I cant think of anything my wife or I use that would be put up regularly? Seriously, not poking fun, what are typical items that would be stored that we would need easy access to? Cleaning supplies. Brooms. Mops, Vacuum. Rags, Linens. Books. Hobby supplies. Spare toilet paper, spare paper towels, light bulbs, household tool kit, household sewing kit, your favorite beverages, canned goods, ink cartridges, computer paper, pencils and pens, guns if you keep them, pet food, extra soaps and shampoos, toiletries, iron and ironing board, place to hang wet laundry that can't be put in the dryer, etc. Living in FL you just learn to deal with getting wet. Raincoats help.

I am referring to my personality, diving in with no planning. Not listening to solid advise. Being offended when opinionated house posters blew it up with critiques.Taking offensive to snooty, condescending summaries about a plan I had chosen. Not seeing past the tone of the message, not looking for someone that would work for me and with me. REFUSING to respect that there is a reason we each excel in different walks of life. Just don't mess with the ones you don't like, same philosophy with all our life choices. You'll hate some, but, there are professionals that truly could have helped me build a better home. I was not receptive at all, just got angry. I'll show them! I Disregarded that the chosen CAD program had flow issues. I didn't even understand the basic drawings. it did, it does.I have zero ability to translate a 5x7 closet into how that closet actually works. The laundry room, same, way too small. pantry, too small. what do those little drawings mean! I have two trained architect friends, and I was certain they weren't understanding I had to move, quickly, with no time for frivolous refinements. Had to break ground by fall, all those laid off Craig's list tradesman would certainly have more time, give my project the thought it needed, and I assumed you wouldn't say you could dry wall or tile if you couldn't. I could not visual the literal size of the storage closet, I now proudly call the master closet, for instance. Being driven by trend threads, that seem good on paper. Was that what I really wanted? Didn't take time to put true thought into those decisions. Did I really want them? Some yes, some no. Driving on to save money, I assume anybody with a lick of vision can hire quality work. So not true, I paid 4 times for new drywall, new painting, and it still is full of ruffles and ridges. Hire the legit drywalling company, wouldn't have lost 2 months with redos, paid excessively, interest hike during the never ending down times, of course interest rates went up.3.99 start build, 5.75 end build rate. Passed on licensed company to do the drywall, He gave me a two week time frame, (way too long in my narrow world)and was 3,000.00 more. So, hire some bozo on Craigslist that promised to get it done in half the time at half the cost.That decision cost me TWO MONTHS! for that investment,I paid up front, they needed supplies, and had me handcuffed, they already had my money. "save 3,00"ultimately costing me literally 4 times that, project set back two months( they showed up about 2 hours every other day and I swear they had no idea how to drywall. Flunked electric 4 times for COO, still have switches/ outlets with no idea their purpose. So, to answer your question, I paid 18,000. for a master bathroom, the tile job and the layout and quality is not good. With proper forethought and workability analysis this would definitely have been avoided. I could have hired someone to explain basic size, what to demand in workmanship, As in earlier post, I am just verbalizing my specific experience and begging you to not to buy that dress at Barneys just because it's 90% off. We were rear ended in 14, can't walk, but, I still want that dress from Bsrneys because it used to be the perfect dress for me. realize needs change, and you if it's an impulsive decision, it will sit in your closet with all the other GREAT deals. I learned from these costly mistakes, and am sooo receptive after the fact, to remedy issues that should have been remedied prior to building!

There's no such thing as truly free advice. If you post here, you "pay" by having to have a thick skin, not having control of where comments go, not having control of how they're delivered, and having to wade through conflicting and bad advice to get to a few gems. That said, you're not paying actual dollars and you're getting professional and high-level amateur feedback, so I'm of the view that you shouldn't complain about the "price." (Idioms about gift horses and mouths and free lunches come to mind). Ignore the irrelevant, wrong, and insensitively delivered advice if you like, take what's of value, and be glad this forum exists. Or at least that's what I remind myself. When I've posted my plan I've gotten all sorts of comments; while the negative (especially the unnecessarily rude, irrelevant, and wrong) can be painful, it's more than outweighed by the valuable comments I've gotten.