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Remodeling Design Dilemma Bathrooms

Please help me design my small accessible/universal designed bathroom

5 years ago

Please help me design my small accessible/universal designed bathroom. I am a 43-year-old woman with Cerebral Palsy. As my husband and I update our home we make changes based on universal design to address my needs now and to plan for potential future needs such as transitioning from using crutches to a wheelchair. Next up is our Master Bath. We envision the master suite to be completely accessible. To make this challenge more interesting I am 5’1” tall. My husband is 6‘6“ tall . The project must occur in the space we have. An addition is out of the budget. Walls can’t be moved due to the recent addition of a guest bath. I am leaning towards a transfer in shower. My husband is opposed to a curbless or roll in shower due to a bad experience in our previous house with a roll in shower. Neither of us are interested in a tub. We just removed a garden tub for our last remodel. Glass doors over a shower curtain is preferred. I love the look of tile but my tender feet cannot tolerate it . Any suggestions on products or materials would be greatly appreciated . I envision A wall mounted vanity to increase open floor space. Keeping all plumbing in its current location is preferred, but I would love to see all layout suggestions. We plan to widen all doorways to a minimum of 32 inches. We would love 36 inches.

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Comments (4)

Elle
5 years ago
I think your best bet is to work with a professional bathroom designer in your area.
Lena Petz
Original Author
5 years ago
Thanks we are using a contracter / designer that has worked with us previously. My experience with him has been better when I had a clearer vision of where I want to end up
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Our hall bath is laid out similar to yours and we have a tiled shower with a low curb and a curtain. It works very well. Since 5 feet wide is more than you need for a shower, the end opposite the fixtures is a tiled shower seat, and the shower faucet has a hose. You can sit on the shower seat and wash your feet, shave your legs, etc., and then rinse off. The tile makes the seat a little cool to sit on, but it looks better than a drop down shower seat made out of plastic or teak. We have towel storage in a cabinet above the commode, and a medicine cabinet recessed in the wall to the left of the sink. We also used a pedestal sink, which opens up the floor area and makes it look bigger. We hung an oval mirror above the sink. Bruce
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Sorry I'm so late getting back to you. I think that oddly sized fixtures can be off-putting. Many home buyers are looking for an "ideal" and they can't see past that. If the tub is well made and the bath is located where it's most needed a shorter size tub might not be a problem. If the bath will be used by children then its size is less important, but children grow into teenagers. acm voiced a concern I had about the location of this bath to nearby bedrooms. My mistake in calling it water-resistant drywall. It looks like drywall but it's better referred to as tile backer board. It's most often 1/2 inch thick but I have seen a Hardie brand backer that was only 1/4" thick and came in 3 x 5 ft. sections. HERE is a link to more info on these. There are several types with differing properties. On toilet location, I don't think "obstruction refers to the nearest wall or fixture. I think it refers to something directly in front of the toilet. Looking at your floor plan an angled toilet would not have anything in front of it. There might be room between the toilet and the vanity for a waste basket.
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I do have a suggestion for your window, a bit pricey, but so worth it - and that is to install a window with integrated blinds, which means blinds encased between two windows. This is tremendously energy efficient and also perfect for privacy without having to add any other kind of window treatment. We did this for three master bedroom windows, based on strong recommendations from this forum, one of the best decorating decisions I ever made. The blinds never get dirty or dusty, are operated by a tiny lever in the frame (no more cord issues!), and can be adjusted any way you like - pulled up or down, opened to any degree you wish. Incredibly convenient and tidy and privacy is assured. This would be fairly easy if you are also replacing the frame. Then you could put up a café curtain on a tension rod to add some softness, which is what I have in my two bathrooms. It would fit within the frame. What do you mean by empty water space? That looks like a good place for a tall cabinet with one or two open shelves. Good for storage and/or display, even if it's small. Here is one company for blinds, there are many others!
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Is the closet that intrudes into the bathroom necessary? If you remove it, you could tuck the toilet there and regain a longer vanity directly opposite the door, in the location that you plan. Of course, it means moving the toilet, but you already plan on doing that.
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_sophiewheeler
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Contractors do not design. They build. You need an actual K&B designer. You have a very restrictive space to get all that you want without turning it into a wet room.

You, and your husband especially, need to educate yourself on modern waterproofing systems and how a wet room is properly created. The Schluter system will offer a lifetime warranty if their products are used from start to finish, including their thinset. Look at their YouTube channel.

And don’t be so sure that your choice tractor can actually do this properly. Especially if he hasn’t had the wetroom and waterproofing conversation with you. Read below, and have a tough conversation with him on all points raised.

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer
Lena Petz
Original Author
5 years ago
Thanks I will review this info. Luckily we are working with a kitchen and bath firm that has designers and contractors

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