Glenn - Thanks much for your advice. I plan to start floor shopping tomorrow; depending on how much it would cost to smooth out the brick, I may just keep it the way it is. We will probably be putting the house on the market in the next couple of years, and it doesn't make sense to spend a lot of money prepping the floors for wood/laminate when prospective buyers might like the brick....

1. Should I have the floor go under the DW and range, or only up to these areas, then use something else of the same height as the floor (11mm I think) to bring the appliances to the right height? One floor rep said you have to bring the floor under the DW so that any leak stays ON TOP of the floor, but another said that any leak would likely get underneath the floor anyway, so it was easier to just run the floor along the front and use something else under the DW. I raise the front legs to the dishwasher, and go just under them enough so the legs will sit on the flooring when I screw them back down. The stove/range can be either. I like to remove the range, but if they are huge, I will go under the front legs. 2. This floor will go on a cement slab, and there is an exterior door in the room. How do I transition from the laminate to the door? Use the same squarenose molding they suggested for your carpet edges. 3. Can I use a T molding at the transitions from laminate to carpet? The Alloc brochure indicates using a square nose at the carpet, but the tack strip for the carpet had to get pulled up in the remodel, so I'd like something to secure and hide that carpet edge. NO, T molding will snap/break/come loose on the soft carpet. You need a square nose, as recommended. The carpet edge is secured with tackstrip and tucked to the squarenose molding. Pull the carpet and pad back. Install your square nose molding. Nail or urethane glue, the tackstrip, leaveing a gap between the squarenose molding, about the same size as the carpet is thick, a little tighter is better. Trim the pad back behind the tackstrip, and then stretch the carpet up on the tackstrips. Hopefully you have enough stretch to trim a little carpet for a clean edge to tuck into the gully(leave long enough to tuck) 4. Since I'm on cement, how do I secure T moldings, or door moldings? Is a construction adhesive OK? You can drill and peg dowl the concrete and then screw down that cheesy plastic channel. I mount the transition in the channel and then cut it to the length I need. Then I use good urethane adhesive, and glur the track down and weight it good. Do not get carried away with the adhesive, as you don't want it to ooze out and glue the laminate in, locking it

I'm not an installer but laminate mfctrs make a T or an L molding that fits on a track. You glue the track to subfloor then the T part of the transition 'finishes' the laminate and still allows for expansion. I may be explaining it wrong but think you can understand the concept. You cant really nail down quarter round unless its not nailed to the floor. That would be the same idea as the transition and most likely much much cheaper to do.

Ok...now the elephant in the room would like a word: Can you source the SAME floor? I mean the IDENTICAL floor? This is first and foremost your #1 priority. Everything after that is a moot point. Most 'man made' products (such as laminate and engineered hardwood) have a "shelf life" of 18 - 24 months. Your project was completed about 2.5 years ago. There is a greater chance that you will NOT find the original product vs. finding it. So....therein lies the rub. If you can source the original product, you can add it to the original floor at the junction where it stops. You may have to pull that last row if it is "cut" (you always need an intact tongue/groove to continue). The HDF core is what limits the "run" of a product - as well as the type of tongue and groove. The 31 linear feet is getting very close to "maximum" run. And the 31 linear feet would need to be the LONG EDGE of the plank...not the short edge. Go ahead and google your floor (you will need to have the box in front of you to find the maker and the "line" of your product). Punch in the "line" and then add "installation instructions" to the search engine and see what you get. Many HDF cores have a 30 - 35 ft maximum run....on the LONG edge. And the short edge can have a maximum run of 25 ft. These are "common" numbers we see with HDF core floors. And just so we are clear - laminate is inappropriate for a kitchen. It has a life expectancy of 3-7 years. The 'high end' laminates can reach 7 years....but then they can die a tragic death at the hands of the dishwasher. Good luck. First things first: find out if you can SOURCE your original floor. Without that identical floor, your question is only hypothetical.