almost any prefinished hardwood the recommended cleaning is a product like Bona (home depot) normally sells it with a microfiber mop. You don't really need much of cleaner but the method would be to lightly spray the mop with cleaner or water and then go over the floor. Unless the floor is heavily soiled plain water would be the best. Don't use products from the grocery store. HD sold a mop like a swiffer that sprayed the floor. It was a Bona product.

Wood vs. Engineered Wood? No contest in this case. If the home was built in 1905, put real hardwood in. This preserves the integrity of the home's building materials. Plus, as you can see from the age of these floors, higher grades (i.e. thicker) hardwood can be sanded several times; you usually don't get even one chance to sand engineered wood. The hardwood layer at the top of this multilayered product is simply too thin. Level Floors and Subfloors There are ways to level a subfloor, ranging from replacing parts of the subfloor with thicker or thinner sheets of plywood (or planks, see below), to pour-on leveling compounds that harden to make the entire floor level. What you use to level uneven areas depends on what the subflooring is. If it is plywood or concrete, the compound works. But more likely with this home, on floors at or above grade, there will be wood planks laid at a diagonal across the floor joists. So in your home, the layers were probably joists first, then subfloor planks of wood, then hardwood with tongue & groove joints. You cannot effectively use a pour-on leveling compound on a plank subfloor, as there are cracks between the planks. However, you can lay a new hardwood floor directly on a wood plank subfloor as long as those planks are sound and relatively level. Replace individual planks that have been damaged by water or insects, are otherwise compromised, or even missing (it happens!), with either new planks of lumber, or with plywood of the same thickness as the planks. Any lumber you install, for either the subfloor or finished flooring, should be brought in to your home several days prior to installation, so the materials acclimatize to your typical interior temperature and humidity. Unlike for ceramic or porcelain tile, the subfloor does not have to be perfectly level. And unlike vinyl sheeting, planks or tiles, the hardwood won't "telegraph" minor differences in height, and minor surface irregularities, so the subfloor doesn't have to be absolutely perfect; it should be sound, strong, uniform and essentially level. Your flooring contractor can give you specifics on what upgrades your subfloor may need once the original hardwood is removed. Joists If the floor is significantly not level in parts, or if certain areas feel spongy when you walk on them, I recommend you have your flooring contractor, a home inspector, or structural engineer inspect the subflooring and especially the floor joists. You don't want to invest in a new floor, only to have it become damaged because some joists weren't attended to. Transitions Transitions (a.k.a. thresholds or molding) between existing rooms and the new floor ought to be made of the same wood and same finish (stain, polyurethane, etc.) as the new flooring you are putting down. As wood ages, the finish becomes darker, so trying to make the transitions match the finishes of existing floors is very difficult and not recommended (what will match those floors right now won't match later after your transitions age up a bit). Eventually, the transitions wouldn't match either the new or the old floors! Transitions come in four types: reducer (when the two floors being joined are of different heights), seam binder (when the floors are the same height, and the boards from each are very close to one another), T-mold (when the two floors are the same height, but there is a crack between the two rooms' flooring) and stair nose or stair edger (when the flooring needs to curve around the front of a stair's "tread"--the flat part of a stair upon which you tread!). The transitions for your particular project can be ordered when you order the hardwood, so make sure to include measurements for those doorways/entrances. The contractor can tell you if he/she anticipates there will be a height difference or gap between the floorings, which would require those particular transitions. Dry Air Concerns Consult a local lumber supplier or flooring contractor familiar with your local climate conditions to discuss finishes or other tips for keeping your wood floors healthy in the dry winters. Sounds wonderful! Have fun!

I'm not sure what LVT is. :) I have an appointment with the flooring person for Saturday to test out samples. Cherie, we hate forced hot air because it bothers my and the kids' asthma and allergies so I am actually very happy about these baseboard radiators as radiant heat is much easier on the lungs since it's not blowing hot air all over the place. There is central air for the summer months. We live in Northern NH... it gets cold here for sure. I am going to keep the tile in the kitchen for now and the rest will be new flooring *all going in the same direction* ! We are ripping out the red carpeting, which is in all four bedrooms as well as on the stairs. We want to replace that with flooring and we don't want yet another type of flooring in the house so it makes sense to do the living and dining room as well. When we reconfigure the kitchen, we'll have to match it up and remove the tile at that time.

Ummmm....the 'special order' price range is: $5.95 - $7.14/sf for wood that is a MATCH!!! That's AWESOME! A 'decent' engineered hardwood STARTS at $7/sf....which means your cost for replacing ALL of it = DOUBLE the cost of the replacement product. Remember: Cost of PRODUCT is only 1/2" the price of the job. The LABOUR for the project is almost the SAME as the product cost. Don't forget to get ADD 5% onto the ORDER for waste. Let's do the math - Assuming $6.50/sf x 445sf = $2892 for WOOD material Demolition: $2/sf x 420sf = $840 Subfloor prep: $2/sf x 420sf = $840 Adhesive: $2.50/sf x 420sf = $1,050 INSTALL Labour + FINISH: $4/sf x 445sf = $1,780 Cost for NEW wood: $7,402 Cost to sand/refinish OLD: $5/sf x 1000sf = $5,000 Total Cost for 1420sf of wood flooring: $12,402 Math for TOTAL REMOVE/REPLACE Engineered Hardwood: Demolition: $2/sf x 1420sf = $2,840 Subfloor Prep: $2/sf x 1420sf = $2,840 Adhesive: $2.50/sf x 1420sf = $3,550 Engineered Wood: $7/sf x 1495 = $10,465 Labour Installation: $3/sf x 1495 = $4,485 Total Cost for 1495sf of ENGINEERED WOOD: $20,930 Hmmmm....that's a LOT MORE than the 'lace in hardwood' job!!!!! Remember: The TOTAL job cost is what you are comparing....NOT the material costs.