Strectomycin and other anti-bacterials are being removed from the market: http://www.goodfruit.com/fire-blight-control-without-antibiotics/ In reading how the bacteria spreads it almost sounds as if it's being introduced by pollinators. If it is being introduced by pollinators then perhaps it's bee keepers introducing and spreading this disease. Kept bees are also suffering from a colony collapse disease which is probably related to the artificial stress of treating an bee ailment with something that kills all the beneficial organisms in the bee's environment so that it can then can be invaded by organisms that aren't symbiotic with the bee's evolved environment and so this stress over time creates colony collapse syndrome. A bit like they now recommend than you eat yogurt and kefir while and after antibiotics treatments to dry and get a balanced microbial intestine 'ecosystem'. Sorry if I sound like Euell Gibbons but remembering his commercial as a kid makes me smile.

Alana, I'm just copying from another Thread I posted in: "Clare, the idea behind saying Hippeastrum need a certain amount of leaves to flower is that the flowering buds are predetermined to develop in the leaves' axis and not any axis but the one between a "normal" leaf and a "semisharing" leaf. These leaves come up regularly after three normal leaves and are on the same side as the leaf before, normally the leaves come pairwise left and right. So per 8 leaves you should get 2 flower stakes ... So in order to have a bulb flower of course lots of leaves are needed, but! the flower stakes we see have been developed in an axilary bud that has been there for some time. Then in the dormant period these buds are developed into flowering scrapes and they leave the bulb once the temperatures go up. So your bulbs will still have some of these buds that will turn into flowers but aren't old enough. So if you want a flower now badly, you might even go with the company's advice. But if you want your bulbs to do fine in future time, (perhaps they'll flower if you put them outside when the weather's fine, they get the change of cold night temperatures and develop the buds) you'll better care for your plants the best way possible now. I'd repot them, often the problem is too moist soil that won't dry out fast enough." Your Apple Blossom is georgeus, I hope you'll get more scrapes in the next season. You should put her in direct sunlight, perhaps get the plant outside once the weather is better and feed regularly. Here is a link that might be useful: Shriveled Bud on Amaryllis?

HEy Guajiro, Did any of these trees bloom last year? I ask because I wonder if 2 year old trees are large enough to flower, all though I have personally seen mango trees that were under a foot tall with a fruit on the tree! I was encouraged to buy that tree but I fifgured with all the stress that fruit caused, it probobly severely set that tree back. How large are your trees? Maybe I should have asked that first. The thing is, even if they were decent sized, I wonder if they had bloomed if they would have really held on to any fruit or not. Andrew

I was figuring winter injury, but wasn't sure. I'll remove the big dead branches. Thanks! Now should I do the same with the peach tree that's right next to it? It has the same issue of only blooming on one side and being brittle/dead on the other. It doesn't have a split open branch like the apple tree though. Also, can any suggest a fertilizer for the injured trees?