Your user instruction manual may have details on the fan operation. You didn't include the model number so I can't look up the documentation for reference.

I have an older (14 years) model DD603. The fan runs for 30 mins after the cycle otherwise ends, or until the drawer is opened. Except the Fast Eco cycle (which I never use) may not run the fan as long. Some model variations had an extended dry option that ran the fan for 4 hours. Don't worry about letting the fan run for an extended time if you start a load before going to bed. It takes very little power. Your model may run it for an extended period as normal.

F&P changed the cycle sequences numerous times through the model progression over the years so I can't say without referencing documentation for your model whether the pauses are normal. The service tech's comment about AC vs. DC control boards is silly, doesn't seem he's very experienced. The machine's internal circuitry supplies the correct type of power to the various components so they operate properly.

Are you sure the water you see in the lower drawer isn't residual water left after the last cycle was run in it? There is normally some water remaining in the pump filter/sump area (the pump can't drain 100% of it), which would be about 1/2 cup or so.

You can't eliminate the air gap if it's required by your local plumbing codes.

F&P has a dual air gap kit to properly connect the two hoses to the air gap and avoid backflow from one to the other.

Dual Air Gap Kit

Thanks for your reply.

The model is FPDD24DCTX9.

The manual says that the fan will run for a period of time after the cycle stops - but 2 hours seemed to be a large period of time.

I don't see anything in the manual about run cycles being longer than the actual number of minutes shown.

Your pointer to the special F&P air gap kit is interesting. Is that part actually sold by F&P? Or is it sold by a 3rd party? And if it is sold by F&P, does it come with a dual-drawer dishwasher? Since (I believe) all current codes call for air-gaps (assuming a dishwasher is installed as part of a remodel, new house, ...), then I would think F&P should provide the special air-gap part?

I was not present when the contractor installed the dishwasher, nor do I have visibility into the air-gap, so I cannot tell if they used this special air gap kit or if they simply used a Y-adapter.

But perhaps that can explain the water in the bottom drawer?

And I am positive that the extra water in bottom drawer only occurs *after* I run the top drawer.

Also, while the air gap is required by local codes - and it was required for the house remodel to pass inspection - I can remove it now that the house has been inspected. No one monitors what the homeowner does. So if the dishwasher, as a whole, will work better without an air gap, I'm more than happy to remove it.

thanks

Thanks

Just to confirm, the dishwasher is not pausing; rather, the countdown timer sits on 22 minutes, for about 10 minutes, before proceeding to 21. But during those 10 minutes, one can hear "dishwasher activity" taking place.

Ahhh. Then that probably is related to water heating delay and is to be considered normal. I never watch mine close enough to catch if/when the estimated time stops/resumes counting (and it is just an estimate based on some particular incoming water temperature). DishDrawers can be used on a cold water connection since they have on-board heating and *always* heat to the specific target temperatures, unlike some other dishwashers that may have a time limit on how long heating runs at which point the cycle continues on whether or not the temperature is reached.

I think your high loop should be positioned a little higher, top of my DishDrawers high loop is almost to the underside of the countertop. Perhaps if you have on demand tankless water heater and a long run to DW you may not be getting very hot water for each fill causing the water heating delay.

I think your high loop should be positioned a little higher, top of my DishDrawers high loop is almost to the underside of the countertop.

Same here—mine is close to the countertop. I think if it's too low, it can allow some of the draining water from the top drawer to backflow into the bottom drawer.

Hi -

Do you have an air gap? If you don't have an air gap, then you are relying on the under-the-sink loop to try to prevent back flow to the dishwasher. So in that case, it should be positioned high. With an air gap - that's above the level of the sink - I don't think it matter where the under-the-sink loop is.

The F&P technician wondered why I had an under-the-sink loop in the first place, since I have an air gap. And I think he is correct in that I don't need it. So maybe getting rid of it will help?

thanks

No air gap, they are are not required here in B.C. Canada so your thought may be correct but I think a very high loop would not hurt.

Thanks to all for suggestions on the positioning of the high-loop.

But do I even need a high-loop if I have an air-gap?

The F&P installation manual has a diagram that shows no loop if one has an air-gap. The dual drain lines travel in a straight line directly from the dishwasher to the air-gap.

The F&P manual shows a high loop (more like a 180 degree "U", not a 360 degree loop) only when there is no air-gap.

thanks

The air gap, of course, takes the place of routing the hoses on a high loop. The Dual Air Gap Kit may solve your backflow problem if the way the two hoses are connected to the air gap is the source of the issue. I don't know how a typical air gap is constructed internally, no experience since they're not required here. The Dual may have a baffle between the two hose connections to keep the flow separate. Yours presumably having one incoming connection, your installer may have used the included Y-adapter to connect the two hoses, and it doesn't itself provide sufficient separation of the flow. Just speculating from afar without access to directly view the situation.

Thanks again for previously sending that link for the dual air-gap. Unfortunately, it's "out of stock".

Sorry to say but we regret choosing F&P we have two seperate drawers

We have two FPaykel we regret it not good machines