New construction home, new sewer main tap - who is responsible?
Holly Marie
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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shadylady2u
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoHolly Marie
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Questions about New Sewer Hookup, 4' pipe capaciy
Comments (4)Normally when connecting single family residential structures to a municipal sewer system they require each structure to have a separate line, however you stated that both your contractor and the town have suggested combining the lines so it goes without saying that you will be granted an exception to the individual line rule. The question then becomes, Can the single 4" line adequately handle the load of all three structures? It is impossible to give an exact answer because you did not mention where you live and without that information we cannot determine if you are under the IRC(International Residential Code) or the UPC(Uniform Plumbing code"). When designing a DWV(Drain,Waste & Vent) system we begin by listing all the fixtures in the structure that will ultimately be connected to the drainage system. We then refer to a table in the code that assigns a DFU (Drainage Fixture Unit) load value to each fixture. In addition, for some fixtures the code assigns a minimum line size. I.E. a shower or laundry standpipe is required a 2"line and a water closet is required a 3" line. At any given point within the structure where two or more lines connect we must compute the DFU load at that point and insure the line downstream from that point is large enough to handle the total combined DFU load. Te determine the size of the "Main Drain" and "House Sewer" we compute the total DFU load for the entire structure then consult another table that lists a maximum number of DFU's that is permitted based upon size the pitch and size of the line. To provide an example I have worked up your problem based upon the IRC tables. (Even though the actual DFU values and line load maximums are slightly different in the UPC, the end result would be approximately the same.) Obviously we would need to know exactly what fixture are installed in each structure but for the purpose of illustration we sill assume each bathroom to be a standard bathroom group, Lavatory, Tub/shower & a 1.6gpf Water Closet. Lavatory............... 1DFU Tub/shwr............... 2DFU Water Closet(1.6gpf)...3 DFU Bathroom Group total = 6DFU's Four bathrooms = (4 x 6DFU's) = 24DFU's Kitchen Sink with Dishwasher....2DFU's Laundry Standpipe.............. 2DFU's Total per structure equals ... 28DFU's The existing load on the 4" sewer line is two structures so the existing load is 28DFU's x 2= 56DFU's. If we then add your structure the new combined load would be 28DFU's x 3 = 84DFU's. A 4" House Sewer with a 1/8" per foot pitch is rated for a maximum of 180DFU's and if the line has a 1/4" per foot pitch the maximum is 216DFU's therefore even with your house tied in, you will still be less than 1/2 the maximum allowable load for a 4" line. Now in regards to access for maintenance and the respective cost to each homeowner. Normally the municipal sewer provider is responsible for maintaining the last 3 to 4' and the tap into the municipal sewer line. Each homeowner is then responsible for all remaining line to the structure. In the case of a shared line such as you suggest there should be a contractural aggeement between all parties that the shared portion of the line should be treated as a common main and the maintenance cost should be equally shared by all three homeowners. Each respective homeowner should then be responsible for the maintenance cost of the line from their structure to the tie in point on the shared line. The contract should provide each respective homeowner an easement to allow access for maintenance of their line to the tie in point on the condition that they will be responsible for both the cost of the maintenance and any landscape that is disturbed during the maintenance process....See MoreNew faucet + lower H2O pressure = new H2O main??!
Comments (9)Plumbers have pressure gauges and should be able to hook them up between the faucet and the shut off valve. I would measure the pressure when the faucet is off. That establishes maximum pressure at the time of test. Then open the faucet and see if the pressure drops. If the pressure stays steady or does not drop much that suggests the faucet has a blockage of some type. Normally the blockage occurs in the screen at the tip of the faucet. It should unscrew and a you can see dirt in the screen when you take it off. I used to build new homes on well systems instead of public water. We always got some dirt in the system when we first started using the water. A faucet will just barely drip and the screen in the air e ator was always the cause. When ever the washing machine starts filling slowly you know to take off the hoses and clean the screens and everything returns to normal. You can also open the valve to the kitchen faucet after attaching a pressure guage to it and fill a bucket with water and see if the pressure reading is similar to when the faucet is on to establish a pattern of what to expect. I would not take at face value you need to replace the water main. Also those pipes are burried low enough to keep from freezing if you live in a cold climate. In florida it is usually 12-18 inches. I would be very surprised if you car can damage that pipe where ever you live. People on farms drive over there pipes with tractors everywhere....See MoreNew home construction loan appraisal came low...
Comments (41)Good correction, 5iveminutes. Still, the gap between current value and the real construction cost would have me very worried were I the homeowner. The gap would be uninsurable. Robin, I was surprised at the lot cost, too: a very nice house on a bargain lot in an area of $400k-$450k houses? Hmmmm.... My personal experience with lot prices.... I just bought mine this year. It cost roughly the same as EJM's. It puts the "rough" in "diamond". It abuts an "affordable housing" subdivision in an area rated "rural". It has a cliff in the middle, 2 catchbasins for street runoff, berms, and a 3 foot wide underground storm drain cutting diagonally across the lot. I can't build anything on top of the drains or berms. Buildable square footage? About 800. No carport/garage. Around here, a lot with buildable space for a family-size $400k house would be 3x that much....See MoreDo I need to replace my sewer main line?
Comments (15)All! Thank you all for your insight. UPDATE! I contacted the company that camera’d the line to get more info And his unbiased opinion since he dorang do any repairs. He can understand why the buyer is asking for repair, but can also understand why I’m hesitant. The line had about 7 cracks throughout, pooling, and some offsets. Fortunately he gave me a couple plumbers recommendations and said I should anticipate ballpark $3500-5 to trench and replace and also said it’s an 70-80’ line. He was so helpful. So we called his recs and a handful of others and are moving forward tomorrow with a bid of $3300! Thank goodness We didn’t fall for the original bid of $11k! Now we are getting a complete new line, able to move forward in escrow, and a 15 year warranty. Pays to shop around!! and yes—I highly recommend any buyer to pay for a sewer inspection prior to purchasing. And yes-we had multiple offers but felt like no matter the buyer, they would have peace of mind in purchasing knowing sewer was new....See Moreleela4
5 years agopatriceny
5 years agoLaurie Schrader
5 years agoJeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor
5 years ago
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