Albino cory's get about 3" at adult size. Keep that in mind. You should only add more fish when your tank has cycled. Your next purchase should be a "complete" test kit, that has reagent tests(test tube and liquid chemicals that you drop in)for pH,ammonia,nitrite and nitrate. DO NOT add anymore fish until the aquarium is cycled. Feed sparingly at this time. Usually ammonia is detectable within 4-10 days. Usually after it is first detected, it spikes overnight. It can go from .25ppm to 1-2ppm overnight. Higher if you don't change a little water or use something to cut down the ammonia saturation to no more then 1ppm. You may have to do several partial water changes (PWC's) daily to keep levels in check. Keep a watchful eye on pH at this time also, this is important because pH can dip down when ammonia is spiking. Adjust with baking soda or PWC's to keep pH from falling below 6.8ppm. Reasoning is if the water becomes too acidic it will kill any bacteria that has started to grow and your cycle will never evolve. When you notice that the ammonia levels are starting to decrease by themselves test for nitrites. When nitrites start to build they will also spike in a few days. At this time keep an eye on ammonia levels also, try to keep thembelow 1.0ppm. Sometimes the ammonia spikes again and it will kill off the second batch of bacteria. This will again stall you. Nitrites will spike high but the good news is nitrite can be somewhat de-toxified by adding salt. Eventually the nitrites will zero out. Check nitrate levels. They should come in low 5-10ppm and over a week or 2 get towards 40ppm. When ammonia and nitrites are no longer detectable and nitrate is you have cycled and can safely add fish. I should have mentioned this earlir but also check for nitrate in your tap so you are not fooled by its presence. Some tap water has a good amount of nitrate allready there so frequent PWC's may have to be done to keep it in check. Nitrate over 45ppm starts to become toxic to fish. Anyway with the the 3 cory's in a 10G I would just go with maybe 1 betta or 1 dwarf gourami or a school of 8 small tetras. Or anything you like that is small so not to overload. Platy's and guppy's are nice, but if any fry surrvive they can overpopulate.

Hi The most important part is the "nitrogen cycle". Many ways to go about it. Easiest way is to introduce 1/2 small hardy fish and use a test kit to know when it's established . Google the procedure will give you tons of info ,besides you will also need info on comtatiblity" issues lol gary

While I agree that having a few fish may be more entertaining then just the one and that barbs are cool fish that's where it ends. The barb's Anna described get to be 3" - 4" as adults, they also tend to get a bit more aggressive as they age. They may not be aggressive towards each other but may (or may not) single out the golden barb (if thats what the yellow one is). When setting up a tank for the first time, especially when a child is involved, you want the best chance possible for success. The thing is since barbs are very active indeed, they need alot more side to side space then a smaller Eclipse can give. The smallest tank I have seen suggested for them is a 20L (20 gallon long, about 30" side to side). You have to think of the adult size when you are planning fish for your tank space. Again, I am not saying this can not work at all and it won't work. I am just saying that it is not "ideal" and for a first tank you should stack the chips on your side. The tank will take 3 weeks to 6 weeks + (average 4 weeks)to cycle. The best thing to do is research the nitrogen cycle in aquariums so you know whats in store. Since you have time before Christmas to get the tank and do a fishless cycle I would advise that. The worse thing for a child is to be presented with a tank and have to wait for a month before you can go and get fish. You could do the fishless cycle in the basement or garage hidden from the child, and just wrap the tank box for opening. Then durring Christmas week go to the pet shop and let your child pick out the fish. IME I have found bettas to be very active when people are arround to watch. Cold water will make the fish lathargic and suseptible to disease and parasites, the most common with cold water is ICH. It is true that "if" the room is maintained at a set Temp. you don't need a heater. But all it takes is the door to be left open by mistake and the Temp. will drop. The heater for the betta is a important and wise purchase. For only $20 it will seem worth it if you loose the fish after you have gotten attached to it. Below is a link about the Nitrogen Cycle. It also has links with in the article for fishless cycle directions. This may seem more then you expected just to have a couple of fish, but you will be happier in the end. It also makes the experience more rewarding to know what you are doing. Keeping interest is important because the novelty of a fish tank wears off after a while. The other aspects of the hobby keep the interest up and is a learning experience in itself. It's a hell of allot better then watching crap "reality" TV (exception is The Girls Next Door). Here is a link that might be useful: FAQ

I actually do grow curry leaf plants and I have experience in cold weather climates as well as warm. First of all your pots are fine for that size seedling. Using too large of a pot often leads to the soil staying too wet and then the roots rotting. On the flip side be careful with small pots and bottom heat, as the soil may dry out too quickly. The heat mat should be at a very low heat setting. Curry leaf plants also don't like to have their roots disturbed and since they are trees they do a lot better in a taller pot. I start them in 2 inch talk pots or I cut the tops off of plastic drink bottles, drill some holes in the bottom and I have an instant tall pot that gives lots of room for root growth without having so much soil that the pot stays wet for too long. And this way you don't have to repot as often, which they don't like, they go through a shock period when you disturb the roots and stop growing for a bit. Anyway for lighting, yes in a colder climate the plants go semi dormant and growth slows down. Make sure the temp is never below 60 degrees and I have had good luck over wintering them under 2 T8 fluorescent lights ( one warm, one cool). They don't put out a lot of heat, they are inexpensive and available in the hardware store here, and sufficient to not only keep the plants alive but to grow as well. Curry leaf plants love heat, but seedlings are very delicate. Also don't be surprised to lose some. I find that curry leaf seeds germinate readily but not every plant is strong enough to make it. It is best when one seed gives one plant. Sometimes you will get 2 or more plants from one seed and those plants tend to be not as big or as strong. Good luck and let us know how it goes.