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Waterproofing/Redguard after drywall compound applied

6 years ago

Hi all,

I have started renovation in my bathroom, it is about 50 years old condo bathroom. Right now we are removing current tiles. Walls are cement and on top of that I believe a kind of plaster was applied, the wall on plumbing side has wire mesh, then cement plus plaster; even some areas are mostly plaster only.

I asked my contractor to remove all mesh wire completely and install Hardiebacker, but he said he could not do it because there was no wall to install it. He said he would keep current cement/plaster as much as possible and apply drywall compound, then install tiles. He never mentioned about waterproofing.

My question is when we should apply waterproofing? Is it fine after drywall compound? I have been reading that Redguard is recommended, but is there any other that might fit better in my situation?

I will appreciate any advice or comments.

Thanks-Denis

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Comments (4)

User
6 years ago
Get that hack OUT of your house. All of that needs to be ripped out and start over.

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer

https://www.tcnatile.com/products-and-services/publications/218-english-publications/188-handbook/948-2017-tcna-handbook-for-ceramic-glass-and-stone-tile-installation.html
ajuju
6 years ago
We just had similar work done, and the first step was to demo it down to the studs.
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In my first post I mention to the person seeking advice that the waterproofing measures are a good idea but most likely not "Code Required". I add that it should be done. My Opinion. Then I remember the most important part and that is to talk about "Bond Breakers" then I showcase the how too with pictures. I'm thinking someone finding this link will like the pictures regardless if they choose Hydro Ban, Red Guard or Aqua Defense. No offense Aliceinwonderland but you are not a "Fan" of mine and if I'm reading your posts right your are a "Stay at Home Mom" who has done some renovations and spends a lot of time here on Garden Web passing out your professional opinion on construction. Yet another reason to understand where your DIY advice is coming from. I enjoy helping people out. People like to see how the Pros do it. I build bathrooms every week in Vancouver Alice. When was your last build? Please add some helpful info and stay off my back - I'm just helping and posting info on a public site. What we need around here is more "Pros" and less "Joe's" - I'll work on that as well. I know tons of guys online that can help with professional opinions from men and women who actually do this job for a living.... I have three gallons of Red Guard in my shop. I will showcase a Red Guard Shower for the next thread... JW
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Here in North Vancouver you can not use Redguard over Drywall in a bathroom shower renovation. This wet zone should be waterproofed from 6' down in my opinion. Drywall Green or White has no place in a shower's wet zone. The problem is the lowest edge where it ties into the tub. Many people chaulk this and it traps moisture and the drywall wicks the water up and the assembly fails. There are many ways of improving this system but a more solid backer board like a cement board or Green Eboard is recommended by me. And I know how to build these rooms bullet proof. Kerdi over drywall as well is recommended by some online but if you live in North Vancouver this is not an option. Always call your city hall to check. Conisder using a topical Liquid membrane especially for a busy shower because it is far easier to install than Kerdi - my opinion. If this is a high end fancy pants steamer - then yes I would look at Kerdi. But most likely go with Nobel TS as I feel it's twice the product for the same price - most times (my costs anyways). I also like that Nobel TS can be installed with a broader range of setting materials. Un Modified thin set can be hard to find and often I find is past it's prime. Do not use mortar more than 6 months old in my opinion (and others). Learn how to read those dates codes on your setting materials... Take your time. Ask this of anyone dispensing advice; "How long have you been incorporated and how much insurance do you carry?" And the number one rule in building a shower is always "Flood test your work!" It's easy - I'll teach you how.... JW
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Steve Altman
3 years ago
If one reads the post, the walls are cement with plaster over the top. No studs to tear down to. If the plaster is sound then make sure it is plane everywhere by patching with plaster of paris (or other plaster basecoat plaster), use veneer plaster if more that 3/16ths needed. Then the plaster must be water proofed. Kerdi or other membrane must be used. Red Guard is a possibility only if you can ascertain if they allow installation over plater. In summary; Plaster must be very sound and then waterproofed behind the tiles
PRO
StarCraft Custom Builders
3 years ago
It's not uncommon to find bathroom walls build mostly of wire and plaster in turn of the century multi-unit housing. Evidently itwas an approved practice back then because the resulting wall was essentially fireproof. And, having had to tear a few of them out, I can attest that the resulting wall is pretty darn strong.

So, there is nothing wrong with just rebuilding the wall using the same wire and plaster method. But, have a chat with your building inspector first to make sure the rebuild would be approved.

If I recall correctly, the method was to stretch wire mesh tautly from floor to ceiling and side to side,, attaching it on all four sides. The applying a thick brown coat, then the scratch coat over that.

Since the tile was mud set, a final smooth top coat was not necessary. However, since your tile would be thin set, a smooth and level top coat would be required.

There is a special reinforced structural plaster used as the brown and scratch coats, and I don't recall at the moment what it is called, but your local supplier should know.

As a shortcut alternative, if you have the room, you could screw and glue 1/2" exterior ply to whatever is left of the old wall for structural support and tile over that. My preference, however, would be to rebuild the original wall.

For waterproofing, apply Schlüter Kerdi cloth to the fully cured plaster, (or plywood) then tile over the Kerdi cloth according to Schlüter's instructions.

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