Concrete floor - Seal or put tile?
Jessi Saunders
6 years ago
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leveling compound over sealed / encapsulated concrete floor
Comments (1)I don't know anything about Feberset PM. I would think that a floor leveling system that includes its own proprietary sealer (bonding agent) would make the Feberset sealer unnecessary. A quick call to Ardex or Mapei technical departments ought to be able to answer questions you have about their products installed over cutback adhesive and compatibility issues with their products installed over Feberset PM....See MoreHow can I tell if my concrete floor is sealed?
Comments (5)Well, I guess I'm on my own! I decided it must not be sealed, since it absorbed the water enough to still be wet this morning! There is no problem with moisture coming through the floor. We had pad and carpet down previously for 25 years and when we pulled it up there was no mildow or moisture marks. However, we are installing an underlayment with the poly. layered as it's base! I spent all day skim coating the floor! My neck is killing me but I am satisfied with the results! Good luck to any others who find themselves not so fortunate, as I hope I am, to not have a sealed or painted concrete slab!! An almost 62 yr. old woman--if I can do this--anyone can! :o/...See MoreSealing Concrete Garage Floor
Comments (3)I did it in both of my garages. Its well worth it in my opinion. I bought the paint and sealer through Sherwin Williams commercial division. The cost was about $500 (wholesale)I think. Prep is extremly important. You can find all the applicication details on the internet. I used grey epoxy with multi colored specs with clear coat over it all. DO NOT use some cheap store brand paint. It will wear off quickly due to warm tires. Pay more...get more....See MoreIs it possible to restrain & seal concrete floors a different color?
Comments (3)Sure...you can shot blast the surface so that raw/rough concrete is showing. Then you will go ahead and do everything the way it should have been done. That is to say you will prime and then add the expensive microtopping to level the floor. Why microtopping? Because regular slab concrete is not 'good enough' to become a high-end finished concrete floor. A well finished concrete floor (no stain...just microtopped and ground to a polish) is $5-$7/sf (done professionally). If you want a professional to stain it, you can add another $2/sf. If you want a protective coating that will NOT stain nor etch (which all concrete will do) you can add another $2/sf. A clear coat epoxy is a finish that will have very little maintenance. A wax finish will require extensive maintenance (like every 6 months). A regular 'urethane' finish will require maintenance around about year 2...and every 2 years ever after. A temporary polymere finish (6months worth of finish) will require reapplication every 6 months. A stained concrete floor without a finish is going to be very splotchy...even if it didn't start out that way. As upset as you are right now, this might be a blessing in disguise. If you wish to pick another floor, now is a good time. With 6.5 years in the flooring industry, I estimate the average concrete floor will 'live' for 7 years. After that the homeowners become tired of it (either physically tired of standing on it; or psychologically tired of dealing with the look and maintenance) and cover it up. And yes...you should have done all the shot blasting, all the grinding, all the leveling with microtopping before staining. Again, it is because poured concrete is not 'ready' to become a floor. It is ready to be covered by something else...and that something else often includes self leveler or some other form of 'leveling' before any other rigid floor is put down. Carpet and sheet goods are the exceptions....See More
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