I am surprised your local code allows it. Ours does not. I can't imagine cleaning the grime from the window. And you certainly can't cover the window with flammable materials.

I can understand your concern. It's generally unusual for a stove to go under a window, but you can do it.

I'm with Katie66 in that I'd think you'd be cleaning that window a lot given food splatters, oil and grease from cooking. I could be wrong having not lived it.

Here are some examples where your idea looks great. The first uses a DOWNDRAFT vent system so the view isn't marred.

The second and third photo have huge banks of windows to leave the view open. The sinks are in the islands, which a lot of people seem to prefer in the thought that children sitting at the island won't be able to reach over to a burning hot range top. The second photo's island sink is small, so its probably a prep sink.

Belvedere, California · More Info

20 Old Oaks · More Info

Contemporary Kitchen · More Info

Against code here too if the window can open.

i'd move the windows rather than put a fancy range in front of one. even if allowed, as a buyer i'd think it was sort of a sketchy layout.

the lovely photos above would be lovlier if they broke up the window wall for the stove. i'd not buy any of those houses.

I have done this for a client where we put the exact same hood above the BBQ on the outside , none opening window but it is a PITA to clean so the better your hood the less work it will be. I would like to see a floor plan

And if you want the hood to be high at its intake to clear the window view, it will have to be large (significantly overlap the range). This will increase the required total flow rate (CFM) for the hood, as well as for the make-up air system.

Section M1506 of the Residential Code where it states:

"Air exhaust openings shall terminate not less than 3 feet from property lines; 3 feet from operable and nonoperable openings into the building and..."

I would doubt that there is a code issue of putting a stove under an openable window. Windows that cannot be opened because of its design are never considered an "opening".

"Nonoperable openings" are something like a ventilation intake louver (fixed slats) in a wall for some reason (maybe a combustion air intake, a HRV intake)

In all these examples, plume capture will be less effective than with suggested hood heights and sizes due to the insufficient size of the hood openings vs. the distance of rise as well as the susceptibility to cross drafts, even those caused by the cook moving about. They look nice though.

Again, [repetition boredom caution], only two of performance, aesthetics, and affordability can be maximized. Here, performance and aesthetics were maximized.

At a five-foot height, hood overlap of the cooking zone should be at least one foot all around. From the last image, that would require 3 ft by 6 ft, requiring 1600 CFM (or a bit less, I don't have data for plume velocity at that height). The likely blower zero static pressure CFM rating would then need to be in the range of 2400 CFM, and the MUA system specs would need to be commensurate (assuming filtering). The architecture would have to support 12-inch duct at a minimum, but operating with 2000 ft/min air velocity; 14-inch duct would bring the air velocity down to a more desirable level.

In cold climates, MUA heating would be a significant issue. Assume 80 kBTU/hr with gas or oil, or 270 kW of electricity to gain a 70F temperature rise.

Can you inveigle your public service company to provide 400A, 440 Vac three-phase power at your residence? It would probably be less expensive to have the kitchen cleaned and repainted every year and use just enough ventilation to remove the odors and smoke after the grease settled, along with a window washing service.

Alternatively, never fry, wok, grill or griddle greasy or oily foods on high heat.