In 1800s-early 1900s houses, it was common to have different woods on floors ... with the degree of expensiveness declining as you went away from public areas. I lived near one house where the flooring changed from rare hardwoods (inlaid, of course) in the areas visitors would see, to good oak in the family's bedrooms and private areas, to pine planks in the servants quarters. The moldings going up the staircases declined in ornateness with each floor, too. Carved walnut became less ornate oak became plain poplar painted wainscoting as you went up. Often the lower floor's flooring was continued up a staircase, with the change taking place as you stepped onto the next floor. Or at least until the wood was out of sight of the guests ... I have seen staircases where the switch happened at the landing because the upper part of the stairs was out of sight. "The stairs go halfway up to a landing, then 180 degree turn to go up the rest of the way, if that matters. " Take some photos and spend time with an editing software: maybe light wood on the stairs would be a nice contrast, maybe not. Maybe painting the risers to match the moldings and having dark tread would look best. Or match the risers to the lower floor color and the treads to the upper floor Lots of choices and none of them are "wrong".

Creaky floors = subfloor problems. Fix the subfloor and you fix the creaky. And to be clear, if you have an older home with creaky floors, it might mean they aren't rigid ENOUGH to handle tile. The creaking often comes from NAILS loosening and RUBBING up and down on wood every time you step on that area. That means there is SOME movement of the subfloor AND you have nails in the space. Getting the subfloor tight is your first order of the day. Nails SUCK at holding sheeting together...but nails are fast and cheap! So guess what builder's use? Yah. Nails. Why? Because they are fast and cheap! So...you will pay someone to refasten (or even relay) the subfloor for hardwood or vinyl. Screws are the way to go to get one layer of subfloor to grab onto another. The creaking should go away once the two layers of subfloor are PROPERLY fastened. Now that you've spent $1-$3/sf on the subfloor (refastening + prep = $1/sf; reLAYING new subfloor + prep = $3/sf) you are ready to install your floor. Now that the creaks are gone, you can have engineered hardwood or vinyl. If you want to look at tiles (that is a LOT of tile...yes you would continue with it throughout the areas that are 'connected') then you probably have to look at ADDING the new subfloor layer. That will put you into the higher cost of install (see cost of new subfloor + prep). If you are in a HOT climate, then tiles are the way to go. Everywhere else in the world, the vinyl will be just fine. Good luck. Fix your subfloor to get rid of the creaks. Have it assessed for deflection ratings to see if you can get tile in there without raising your floor by 1".

No to fake wood next to real wood you might be okay with the bedrooms but IMO the same hardwood in the FR and if your hardwood is a bit beat up ask the flooring guys if there is a product to use to make it look better.

Thanks for these comments !! very light lvp. we are on an incredibly tight budget so unfort dont have a lot of options (please advise if you know of a great lvp!!!). i am considering megaclic grand collection in ash color… (the one on the left. the sample on right is much darker with no light…) the kitchen cabinets will stay (ill stain them slightly darker walnut) but new counters (ceasarstone clamshell, sold at ikea for 1/2 the price) the rock fireplace going -before floors :-) good point that changing the direction might help with the trip hazard… lvp will also be on stairs and upstairs. railings will change too. going for something like this but trying to find someone to build it for not crazy $