Questions about 5:1:1 and houseplants.
Jen (Pennsylvania, 7a)
6 years ago
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Jen (Pennsylvania, 7a)
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Question about the 5-1-1
Comments (13)I'm new to this whole idea, but it sure seems to me that the perfect retention level in your mix will be heavily dependent on your location and availablity to provide water. It's already in the upper 70's here with lows in the mid 60's, I don't want to water 2 or 3 times a day when it's 95, I couldn't even if I wanted to, once a day is all I've got in me. I didn't screen my bark (I thought it was pretty nice stuff right out of the bag) or my course perlite (very little dust) with the intention of leaving a little extra retention in my mix. I ran some tests before I planted in it, i.e. gave different sized pots a good watering, set the pots in their final location for a day and a night, dug it up to the bottom. 2-3 gal pots weren't soggy at all, still nice and damp, like a squeezed out rag. The 5 gal pots held onto water for 2 days before losing that damp rag feel, and the 10 gal were pretty good even for 3 days down in the middle. Like I said, I'm new to "perched water", I was expecting to find it really wet at the bottom, but it wasn't soggy at all even with everything being unscreened. But then again my weather right now is like July or August for many of you. Josh said "You want to begin thinking more about the principles behind the use of an ingredient, rather than focusing on an ingredient in particular.". To me this means that the 5-1-1 isn't perfect, as is, for everyone, everywhere....its a customizable base for everyone, everywhere. I think that, for me, as I grow as a gardener, my mix will get better and better. But I'm going to have to do that through eductation and practical application rather than a following a recipe. That's my take on it anyways, we'll see how it goes.../crossmyfingers...See MoreQuestion for Al: watering/fertilizing 5-1-1 mix with a twist...
Comments (2)Any way to delete this post? I was able to read all the re-posts of Al's (Tapla) Container soils and water retention originals and comments and questions (lots of free time! he he) and I believe I have found the answers in there. If there is a way to delete this post. please let me know. Thanks, Robert...See MoreA note of thanks, and questions about Gritty and 5-1-1 mixes
Comments (0)Hello and happy spring to everyone! I've spent the past few months reading through the comments on the 'container soils- water movement and retention' posts and I have to say thank you to everyone for sharing their knowledge and passion. I learn something new here every day, and am excited to join in this community. I am going to be making both the Gritty Mix and 5-1-1 this weekend, and want to make sure I have all the information absolutely correct. So far I have screened Repti-Bark with 3/8 inch screen to remove the bigger pieces, and a 1/8 inch screen to remove the fines. I'll be using Manna-Pro chicken grit, and Napa 8822 and am wondering if I need to sift the grit, and with the Napa floor dry only using my smallest screen to remove dust. For the 5-1-1 mix I have sphagnum peat and perlite (plus the bark) dolomite lime, and a 5-1-1 fish fertilizer. I'm not sure about how I add the lime and fertilizer, am I wetting the mix, etc. I've been reluctant to ask for help, but I want to get this right!...See MoreAl's 5-1-1 mix, tropical houseplants and adding lime after planting
Comments (8)My statement that pine bark is close to neutral must be incorrect. A few years back I had done some some quick tests and perhaps (most likely) they were wrong. I should do some more tests since many here and published papers assert that pine bark can vary wildly in acidity. These are my thoughts regarding container Ph: Let us say you start with a soil Ph of about 6. If neutral water is used then the soil Ph should remain at 6 for ever. However, bark will decompose and move towards neutral over time. If alkaline water is used then the soil will move towards neutral quicker and over time it will start becoming alkaline. Conversely, water Ph will drop in the beginning and over time starting water Ph will start dominating. How quick is the process? Depends on the buffering capacity of the soil. Higher the buffering capacity, the better is its resistance to Ph change. I think, not entirely sure, bark/peat based soils do not have as good a buffering capacity of clay based soils. Sand/grit have the least. Composted matter also have a high buffering capacity. The addition of lime to 511 probably improves its initial buffering capacity too. Nutrient availability is best around neutral or slightly acidic. Looking at the charts it seems 6.5 is ideal. Our tap water is nearly neutral although I should do that test more frequently. Being neutral I have stopped bothering with Ph altogether. Rainwater will test a bit acidic and so will distilled water. Distilled water will absorb CO2 as soon as it is exposed to air and become tad bit acidic. Both distilled water and rainwater have no buffering capacity at all....See MoreNil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)
6 years agoJen (Pennsylvania, 7a)
6 years agoJen (Pennsylvania, 7a)
6 years agoJen (Pennsylvania, 7a)
6 years agoJen (Pennsylvania, 7a)
6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoJen (Pennsylvania, 7a)
6 years agoJen (Pennsylvania, 7a)
6 years ago
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Nil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)