Like old Christmas tree lights when one goes out they all go out?

I think Klem has it -- it sounds like you connected all the sockets in series. That won't work. Shame on your luminaire manufacturer for not including instructions.

Connect all the white or ribbed wires from the sockets together with the white wire from the ceiling box. Connect all the black or smooth wires from the sockets together with the black wire from the box. Connect the bare or green wire from the chandelier frame to the bare or green wire from the box. Use wire nuts (3 total) and tighten them firmly. That should get you going.

You connected all six "A" wires together and all six "B" wires together, right? By using either a wire nut or taping.

And, what voltage reading do you get at each socket?

Those instructions are pretty badly written. I can see how you'd misunderstand them. With the misspelled word "labeling," they look like the instructions you typically get with Chinese-made stuff where the US importers didn't bother to write their own instructions, but left it to the manufacturer.

Can you post a picture of the wire connections as you have them now?

If you have wire nuts on them, please take a picture with the wire nuts on, and another with the wire nuts off.

Dumb question #1: you're also connecting all these wires to the power source, yes? (See below.)

Dumb questions #2 - 5: you did strip the plastic insulation off the ends of all the wires, right? So that about 1/2" - 3/4" of copper is exposed? With the copper ends all twisted together and then also twisted with the house box wires? With a wirenut screwed tightly on them?

Just making sure we're on the same page here.

Here's how they should be connected. Only 3 sockets are shown. The more or less trapezoidal orange things are supposed to be wirenuts. Sorry I didn't draw them very well.

A test light can illuminate with low voltage. All that tells you is there is electricity, not if it is the correct amount.

From the look of those photos, it looks like you did not separate the two different wires (split) in each arm and the feed(main) wire. That is common with wiring made overseas that does not have to follow US regulations---like having a black/white/green wire color.

The picture DavidR posted is the correct way ----but in your case, there are no black/white wires----just two wires in one insulated cable.

You will need to slit the insulation between the two wires in each cable(from each arm and the main feed cable---six wires) and physically separate the two wires. Then twist one wire from each cable together and install the wire nut. Then twist the other six the same way. That will do the same thing as the black/white wires in the diagram.

When I enlarged the photo and looked really closely, it looked like you did connect them in parallel. Good so far, but see below.

Now, how do you connect all those wires to the power coming from the ceiling box? Please take a photo of that.

The reason I had the "but" in the first paragraph is that although your instructions don't say so, it DOES matter which wire from the sockets goes where. If you get it wrong, you have a shock hazard.

When you separate the plastic "zip cord" into two wires, one of those wires should be ribbed, and the other one smooth. All the smooth wires should be connected together, and then connected to the BLACK wire from the ceiling box. All the ribbed wires should be connected together, and then connected to the WHITE wire from the ceiling box.

If the zip cord wires aren't coded as ribbed and smooth, you'll have to determine which wire is which the hard way, by using a multimeter on resistance setting. You'll have to do this for every light socket in the luminaire.. :(

One thing more, be sure that plastic bushing that's slid down the top left wire gets pushed back into the luminare's arm before you install it on the ceiling box.

I felt a new hairdo,some smoke or both might result from this project. Then I read "If the zip cord wires aren't coded as ribbed and smooth, you'll have to determine which wire is which the hard way, by using a multimeter on resistance setting. You'll have to do this for every light socket in the luminaire." With some more instructions,it's not only possible,it's probable.

I dunno, Klem. I'd rather see the OP hire a pro to install this, but how realistic is that? We could go on all day about such issues as DIY culture, anti-expert sentiment, and tantrums over even the most basic common sense legal regulation. But as the song says, it is what it is.

It stinks that the manufacturer of this luminaire essentially sold the OP an assemble-it-yourself light kit, not a light. It stinks that they didn't even provide reasonably literate instructions. It stinks that so much of what's sold in stores, let alone on the net, is direct import junk these days.

But this is what people apparently want. Most of our grandparents would have paid (and did pay) a week's salary or more to get a nice new chandelier hung in the dining room. Who would today? Again, it is what it is.

So let's see if we can provide some guidance for a safe installation here.

Glad it worked out for you!

Now for a quick safety check.

Go to your hardware store and get a cheap neon tester similar to this. With the light on, screw a bulb out enough to expose its metal threads. Touch one probe of the tester to a metal part of the chandelier, the chain, or one of the box screws or hickeys. Use extra wire if you need to. Touch the other tester probe to the light bulb's metal threads.

If the tester stays dark, you're good. If it glows, that means the socket shells are hot, which is a shock hazard. To fix it, just drop the canopy and reverse the black and white wires coming from the ceiling box.

PS: I had to look up "goat rodeo" at the Urbandictionary. :-\

:D

Thanks Dave, ill test that out tonight.