I just went to buy one last week. Utility room sink faucets generally do not have sprayers. They have a threaded end so you can hook up a hose. I did not find anything that wasn't plastic at the box stores so I ordered a sturdier one online. Since you want a sprayer I would certainly buy a kitchen faucet to use there.

Just because some people get water spots is no reason to assume you will! It depends on your local water supply, pretty much. Get a stainless mixing bowl, splatter it, let it dry, and see how it works. Feel the faucets on display, preferably where they're hooked up. If they aren't hooked up and they feel floopy, check underneath--many displays don't bother putting the weights on the hoses which leads to terrible performance. Is there anything you like or hate about your faucet and sink now? Go off that. If you bust your coffee maker's carafe monthly, I recommend stainless (or copper) no matter how splotchy it gets. If you like a traditional no-frills faucet, by the way, do look at Chicago Faucets. Those will be running long after KWC is buried in futuristic rubble.

We used Virginia Kitchens. I'm actually up in the Baltimore area, but was stuck without any installer to help. Neil and his crew took pity on me and made a special trip my way to do the installation. We were so pleased with their work!! http://ikeakitchenva.com

I'm a DIYer and am all for customizing Ikea as long as it doesn't end up costing more. The ease of installation of the drawer system is one of the draws. Replacing the interior and fittings would drive the cost up tremendously especially since most want all drawer kitchens. If I were concerned with lost interior space in drawers I'd definitely price out a custom kitchen and compare costs to the Ikea kitchen with drawer modifications. Both trash/recycle hacks I posted above I did with all Ikea parts. I did not have to purchase an additional insert system. An island can be configured to many different depths without cutting down cabinets. Add a 9", 12", 15", etc to the sides of the 24" with the large panels on the long end and you can attain many different depths (33", 36", 39"... -not including counter overhang). Yes, if a person must have exactly 36" and back to back, you'd have to customize. All depends on how much you want to spend. I use the rail system for mounting, except for islands and special circumstances. The feet aren't for support but do make fine tuning the leveling quite easy. Also, the toekick snaps onto the feet. Sometime I use Ikea toekick, other times I use base moulding or a combination. The bottom line is to be careful with your labor and material quotes for the custom work if you aren't doing it yourself as it can drive the price of an Ikea kitchen up tremendously. With careful planning you'll be able to have the kitchen you want without too many expensive changes since you're trying to save money. The easy hacks I've done and see called for frequently that aren't widely known are the trash/recycle pullouts, pulling the fridge cab forward and using a larger side panel for full depth fridges, alternate ideas for microwave spaces, installing a non-Ikea farm sink, adding drawers to pullouts and pantries beyond their suggested configs, and using kitchen cabs in other spaces. Buehl's FAQ thread is a compilation of these and many others.