Pet-stained hardwood floors - too far gone?
6 years ago
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How to clean pet residue/stains on old hardwoods under carpet
Comments (6)Here is how I have dealt with a similar situation. The POs were covering up damage on oak hardwoods with area rugs. I am guessing that in addition to their petÂs accidents, they shampooed the area rug in place which further damaged the floors. We found out about the damage two hours before closing on the house during the final walk-through. This is a very temporary solution and is not the correct way to fix the damage; the experts on this board can advise you how to do that. Wash the floor on your hands and knees (or sitting on the floor using a small amount of water, MurphyÂs oil soap, scrub brushes, scrubbies, and old terry towels- whatever it takes to clean the floor. Do a small section at a time, and rinse with clear water using a clean towel and dry each section thoroughly as you go along. Be careful with the waterÂdonÂt pour it onÂyou donÂt want to cause more damage than is already there. This will take a long time as you will be crawling around the floor. With a damp sponge mop using water and vinegar, rinse again. Remember while you need the water to clean the floor, water also damages the floor. DonÂt let pooling water sit on the floor. Dry it with a towel. On the stains you can try several things to at least lighten the color of the damaged spots. I used a combo of lightly sanding and household bleach. The stains have not disappeared, but they are lighter and cleaner. Wait till the next day or several hours to be sure the floor is completely dry and temporarily fill in the spots where the poly is gone due to damage of pet stains, water and sanding/bleaching by judiciously using a small amount of wipe-on-poly. Wipe-on-poly is for furniture and is not recommended for floors, but a small amount can fill in and blend the areas where the floor poly is completely gone. After the poly is completely dry, use a shine product. I used Holloway House Quick Shine for about $9.00 (Orange Glow does not work). I have added a few throw rugs and the floor looks about 50% better and will get me buy until I can have the floors refinished....See MoreHardwood floor and pet urine odor removal
Comments (4)Thank you so much for your responses. Someone recommended zinsser shellac seal coat wax free (sanding sealer) before applying the polyurethane. I dont know if it'll work because as you mentioned the urine may have penetrated in between the boards into subfloor but we don't have the time and money to replace anything now. I guess if by next year the smell persists we will remove the hardwood floor and replace it. When the AC is on it doesn't smell, but if the AC is off for a while the odor is there. It is not very strong but enough that it bothers us....See MoreIs there something wrong with this HardWood Floor
Comments (6)You are seeing what we refer to as 'dishout'...and it is a sanding issue. Walnut is very difficult to sand flat. Each of us have a favorite sanding method to get a flat result. I use a machine, similar to a terrazzo grinder, called a Lagler Trio, as the final machine; it never fails in giving an absolute flat result. You will notice dishout and any other sanding anomaly on these dark floors. You will also notice every scratch, dust particle, pet hair and piece of lint....See MoreHardwood floor vs. engineered hardwood?
Comments (27)Choosing the right flooring type isn't enough for your living condition. You will have to consider the types of cut: flat sawn, rift and quarter sawn, quarter sawn or live sawn. Quarter sawn and rift & quarter sawn will be best choices, because expansion and contraction is along the thickness of the wood. You will need climate control all year round. 70 degrees at 40 % relative humidity is where you want to be throughout the year. The use of a humidifier/dehumidifier will be needed year round. Although, engineered flooring is more stable than solid. Using the wrong wood specie in your living condition can run the risk of de-laminating with engineered wood. If, the top veneer is more or less stable than it's core and backing. You will experience de-laminating in extreme humidity swings. Take in account of what the engineered flooring is constructed of: mdf or plywood. The width of the flooring will account for how much expansion and contracting also. 2 1/4" strips are the most stable. As you go wider, expect to see more wider seasonal gaps. Proper acclimating is critical, should be performed with a moisture meter. For 2 1/4" strip flooring , sub-floor and flooring moisture should be within 4%. For all other widths 2% moisture differentiation is allowed or should not be exceeded. Don't forget proper expansion gaps, which is the thickness of your flooring, example: 3/4" thick = 3/4" gap. Sub-floor type and condition will affect the performance of wood floors. All this needs to be considered for the proper and successful performance of your wood floors....See MoreRelated Professionals
Burlington Flooring Contractors · Livonia Flooring Contractors · Oak Ridge Flooring Contractors · Saint Louis Park Flooring Contractors · The Crossings Flooring Contractors · Toledo Flooring Contractors · Des Moines Tile and Stone Contractors · Springdale Carpet Dealers · Broadview Heights General Contractors · Dunkirk General Contractors · Jeffersonville General Contractors · The Hammocks General Contractors · Waianae General Contractors · Waipahu General Contractors · Travilah General Contractors- 6 years ago
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