I would just use a mineral oil and beeswax combination. Some people prefer the look of tung oil as it has a darker more amber color to it. And by tung oil finish I don't mean Waterlox. I see a lot of posts calling Waterlox a tung oil finish which is really not correct. Waterlox is a varnish, just like the oil based Minwax Polyurethane you find at any hardware store. But it uses phenolic resins instead of polyurethane resins and one of the oils in the forumulation is tung. But it is very different than a 100% tung oil finish. Don't get my wrong, I love the look and repairability of Waterlox compared to many finishes but I would not put it on a food prep counter.

You missed the entire point of my post.. I was looking for feedback from anyone that has used the finish on wood counters (not a cutting surface butcher block) I was not looking for someones thought on the product that hasn't used it. I did understand your point, you don't like that it is Vermont "natural" coatings you don't think it is any more natural that other products out there. And it seemed implied that I couldn't possibly have done any research if I had any thought to use it. I have done my research. They use whey protein (a byproduct of making cheese) in place of heavy metal driers and the toxic binders and carcinogenic solvents typically found in finishes. My thought is is more natural than many other finishes and it holds up great underfoot! Is it the perfect finish probably not there maybe something better out there. I know a LOT of people use waterlox on their non cutting wood counters and I was thinking of this an an alternative. So back to my original question does anyone know how it would wear on a non cutting surface counter top, Or even how it has worn on your dining table.

I made my own hardwood kitchen countertop out of sycamore. Sycamore provides of nice combination of a wood that is moderately dense, beautiful and yet still reasonably priced. I began with rough quater sawn lumber (which was also book-match cut) and had them finished down to 1" thick planks which I joined together. The finished counter was 12'x2' with sink centered in the middle. Based on strong encouragement from an expert friend in the hardwood business, I sealed it with Waterlox. Following his advice I block sanded the counter down to 1,000 grit paper, to a near glass finish and then applied 7 coats of Waterlox tung oil. The oil will need to fully cure between coats so this can take a bit of time (it has a strong odor too). Waterlox indeed seems to be some impressive stuff. Very waterproof, and cleans pretty well too- (I use vinegar). The only problem I have noticed is that a particular type of soap was spilled and sat overnight on one spot and it seems to have eroded the finish. Despite 2 years of frequent use the counter still looks good. Yes, it is susceptible to dents and gouging, but wood seems to have an odd way of naturally "healing" over time too. All said and done, I'm happy with the results and would probably do it again. It definitely makes an interesting look for my kitchen.

I recommend PolyWhey for a clear waterbased finish, it's a fabulous finish -- uses milk whey instead of urethane. Has virtually no odor and dries in about an hour. Amazing stuff. Did my staircase with it last year (it dried before the cats even woke from their nap) and it wears like iron. I've switched over to using it entirely for any poly project. There's also BioShield Wood Counter Finish, OSMO, SoyGuard and other oil types that work well and can be recoated easily. You can stain under/with any of these using non-aniline (food-safe) stains. Here is a link that might be useful: polywhey and other bio-shield type safe finishes