How do you get that KCl raises pH?

OP's location: South Dallas county, Texas

Turf: unknown variety of bermuda

There is a lot to cover here and regarding the replies you got on the other forum. I try to stay away from the organic lawn forum because of the abuse from one of the frequent posters. There are as many varieties of organic gardener as there are varieties of vegetarians. He's one of the intolerant ones...which makes sense for a forum labeled for organics. That forum was created back when this forum had people who were intolerant of both organic and chemical gardening. Now that the two are separated it has cooled down a lot.
I have used organic fertilizer exclusively for 15 years; however, as gardengal mentioned in reply to your other post, getting rid of weeds on a pure organic program is next to impossible. If you want to do that quickly and efficiently, spray one or two times with a chemical herbicide and be done with it...for awhile at least. If you take proper care of the turf you should minimize future weeds. More on that later.

TAMU has a poor reputation for soil testing. Logan Labs gives a much more reliable and repeatable test. You might want to repost your LL test here. Once you get the LL test, TAMU might be able to interpret it for you with a local flavor.

Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

Sure, here is my soil report from Logan Labs. I am going to try to give TAMU CES another call today.

I am wondering if I can just 'scalp' the existing Bermuda + Weeds turf and overseed with something else -- maybe Zoysia Japonica or Buffalo Grass. Would that be feasible, and what sort of prep should I look into doing ahead of time? Let me know high-level and I can do my research for the details :)

Thanks

If you were looking for something to take over and eradicate the bermuda, the only grass I know of that will do that is St Augustine. When mowed high the coarse bladed St Aug provides far too much shade for bermuda to thrive. It thins out and dies away. There is a variety of buffalo called UC Verde that might dominate over bermuda. The advantage of the UC Verde might be that you can mow it tall to help shade out the lower growing bermuda. UC Verde is the best of the buffalo varieties because it grows extremely dense and does not develop seed heads or flowers. It never looks shaggy. All the seeded buffalo is thin and grows seed heads much faster than the grass grows. UC Verde only comes as a sod and could be hard to find in Texas. From what I understand it is like the ultimate turf if you don't mind winter dormancy. Buffalo can be sensitive to herbicides. When bermuda gets up to 2 inches it thins out and cannot keep weeds out of itself. When mowed low (under an inch) it becomes very dense and will do a pretty good job keeping weeds out. Bermuda is used on putting greens and mowed down to 3/16-inch, so scalping it is not going to hurt it.

I put out some alfalfa pellets, milorganite, as well as green sand, a few weeks ago. I am going to put down some more alfalfa pellets in the next week or two. I am not seeing much in the way of results, but I realize these things take time & patience.

I was reading around and came across someone advocating the use of dried molasses as a soil amendment. I was actually looking into means of spreading the green sand other than a common broadcast spreader, because that thing was pretty useless (I ended up just banging the spreader around the yard, which seemed to release the green dust the best). Any advice on whether molasses might help or hurt, and/or how else to go about spreading the green dust?

There's some patches of bare soil scattered around the front and side yard ... it looks gray & unhealthy, almost like clay. I guess even the weeds don't like it in some spots. Sure would love to get it nice and healthy!

Thanks again for the help & advice!

I have started a Google calendar layer for gardening where I mark down the day I apply whatever it is I apply/plant. Then I can look back and not guess how long it's been since something went down. One good reason for that is so you don't jump the gun on hoping for results from organics. It really does take 3 full weeks. Once you see the results, you will be happy.

Molasses and other sugars are good food for bacteria (as opposed to fungus). I don't remember your exact situation but if your yard had been baked or dried out for months at a time, then molasses might help kick start the microbes. They all need to be well fed to make the best soil. Here's how they make 50 pounds of dried molasses: they take 10 pounds of wet molasses, pour it onto 40 pounds of chipped corn cobs or rice hulls, and bag it. If you want to save a LOT of money, find a farm and ranch CO-OP, not a feed store, and call them. You might have to join, but probably not. They sell molasses to farmers by the pound. Normally farmers bring a 55-gallon drum to fill, but if you bring your own gallon jug, they will fill that for you. Cost? Whatever the wholesale market price for molasses is. Last time I did that it cost $0.10 per pound. A gallon weighs about 15 pounds so the cost was...$1.50 for a gallon. So the 10 pounds of molasses in dried molasses cost them a dollar, and they sell it for $30 or whatever. Or you can buy liquid in bottles at the feed store for $15. The application rate to start is 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. That is the rate farmers use (1 gallon per acre is the same). The easiest way to apply is to know that 3 ounces is a couple tablespoons. Put a few ounces of water into a jar and put the molasses in. Stir them together in a very small quantity. The molasses will thin out fast with just a little water. This is much, Much easier than trying to stir it into a gallon of water or any other large amount. Thin it out in a small quantity and then pour it into a hose end sprayer with a lot more water. The thinned molasses will mix right in. Figure out what 1,000 square feet looks like on your lawn and spray the entire contents of the hose bottle into that 1,000 square feet. If you put 6 ounces of molasses into the bottle, it should spray just fine to cover 2,000 square feet. I have sucked up undiluted molasses through my sprayer. I had to take the screen filter off the bottom of the down-tube, but it worked fine. It was just harder to clean the bottle afterwards. You will not see any change in anything after 3 weeks of molasses. I have sprayed it at lots of different rates and never saw any change on anything. Still, I can't help but think it is a good thing to do. It just doesn't give the greening effect that alfalfa pellets will.

Gray unhealthy soil: Start with molasses, alfalfa, and deep watering. Cover that with a couple inches of mulch or compost if you can't get mulch. Let that sit for a few weeks (3 or more) and the soil should be much different.