I love wood floors and I also love my dogs. I have two 70 lb. boxers at the moment but have had many boxers and I can say that I have not had issues with urine. Any accidents which are extremely rare are cleaned up immediately so Perhaps this is why we have never had staines of any sort. The wood is a mix of red and white oak stained dark, dark mahogany, English Chestnut and Ebony. Not wide plank pine. Pine is soft and can show dents easily. I have my floors refinished every year. Not a full blown out sand, stain and seal but a simple cleaning and sealant. Which keeps them looking their best. Really no different than having your carpets cleaned. I have one dog who detests having nails trimmed but we have a fun trick. One of us holds a peanut butter lolipop. This can be done with a scoop of peanut butter on a spoon. While the dog is busy licking the peanut butter I trim nails. By the time the dog is done with the PB, the nails are perfect. I think I could even paint them a fire engine red and she would not notice. ~boxer A recent pic

From your link describing using the tung oil, I'd go with that. I would stay away from polys at all cost as they are so difficult to repair without redoing the whole thing. I am hoping to do my kitchen floor--don't know what's under the vinyl tiles or the several layers underneath, but the rest of the downstairs is oak--white I presume? I think my trim is red oak--is that possible? My house was built in 1908. I would replace the registers also, but don't go to the expense of the linked site--they seem to only sell ones to fit modern ductwork; check out salvage shops/antique shops...there is one in my town where I've bought a couple registers from their large pile--all the good old cast iron black, some with louvers, some without, but all with varying designs of patterns for the grate. I put in an additional duct to my living room, and absolutely had to have the large register if I ever move furniture to match the one in the open near the dining room doors. Your idea of tung oil has given me another and easier option than sanding insanely and doing smelly chemicals. Thanks!

I don't understand why you would have to cut the tongue & grooves off, except on the boards that would be the edges. We made panels out of the leftover Southern Yellow Pine 1x6" (face of board 5.25", thickness 3/4") flooring that we put in our house. We used the panels to build shelving for upper cabinets in our kitchen. The tongue & groove made for a lot of gluing surface - and glue is all that holds those panels together. We laid out the sections of wood on a flat surface, applied wood glue, then clamped the panels together with pipe clamps. Once the glue was set we trimmed the sides of the panels then squared up the ends. We used the same method to make the adjustable shelves inside the cabinet boxes. We had no problems with cracks between the boards or the individual boards cupping. We did have to alternate the pipe clamps to prevent the panels from bowing while the glue set. Our panels are not as long or as wide as you want for your table, so I think you would want to build the frame as suggested above. And the extra support of the plywood would certainly provide more security for the weight you will be dealing with. I'd be tempted to use 1x2 as edge banding to wrap the edges that will be seen, just to make it prettier. Anne

I use a product called "Furniture Feet". The paper inside the box lists four sizes available: extra small, small, large, & extra large. At my local Bed Bath & Beyond store, they only have sizes small and large. Maybe the other sizes can be found online. The small is for leg size 7/8" - 1 1/4". Large is for leg size 1 3/8"- 1 5/8". The clear stretchy part is very flexible, yet sturdy. They fit round legs as well as square or rectangular legs. Furniture Feet