Electric tank or tankless water heater v. Propane tank or tankless
smiles33
4 years ago
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smiles33
4 years agoRelated Discussions
tankless water heater or hi effeciency tank?
Comments (8)Additional consideration: time to first hot water vs lower energy consumption. Tankless are efficient because heat on demand. This also means never run out of hot water. Drawback is that it does not turn on instantly. Tankless units allow a certain amount of cold water to pass thru to gauge how much heating is needed before start heating. Conventional hot water heaters supply instantly from a tank of existing hot water. Delay to full hot in a conventional system is the time needed to flush existing water out of line (volume of water in pipe between hot water heater and end faucet). The tankless unit adds the volume of water before the unit cranks up to full heat. I have a Bosch dishwasher which is very efficient, but depends on incoming water being hot. While incoming water is heated, amount of heating can not compensate for too cold water in initial fill. Dishwasher relies on heating of dishes by hot water to dry dishes (not a true heated dry like most domestic models). This system has real problems if using either a tankless unit or having too big a volume of piping between the water heater and the dishwasher. For most uses, difference in timing just means running water longer before it gets hot. Energy savings are greatest for water heaters which are used infrequently. e.g. a weekend vacation home saves a lot on tankless unit. A commercial restaurant would most likely use less energy with a tank since tanks heat more efficiently and water does not stay in tank long. Finally on sizing: A lot of sizing charts show number of bathrooms etc. If you have a well, the limiting factor is often well flow rate. If the well flows at 3 gallons/minute max, then it gains nothing to size a tankless unit that can heat 5 gpm. Size on the lower of house flow rate or usage....See Moretank or tankless hot water heater
Comments (8)"Does the Navien have a bypass? That's good info to know. I hadn't run into the min flow issues until they were reported in the plumbing forum - I don't live where water inlet temps would ever get to 80*. You are about the condensing units having EF's in the .90's" Jake, The Navien has no mixing bypass in the unit like the other flash units that superheat the water in the exchanger to 170-190 and then remix water downstream for temp control. That is why the copper heat exchangers with the intense heat are subject to liming. So they do have difficuties firing and staying on in minimum fire when the cold mix water is to high in temp. The Navien has 100% flow through the #436 stainless steel heat exchangers. Since the unit's heat exchanger is capable of the flow, erosion and due to velocity, along with lower operating temps it is not susceptible to liming & calcification. The pitfall of the design is a slightly wider temp fluctuation than the Jap platform heaters, but this is not noticed so much in the "A" model that buffers that with the internal tank. IMO, the "A" model is the only way to go for the approx 125-150 cost upgrade. The lack of mixing valve downstream, makes the Navien a perfect heater to add in-line to the output of a solar tank to raise the water temp only when tank is low or depleted due to usage or lack of solar input. Rinnai has just released some info on their condensing water heater, 95%. Pitfalls are still polypropylene concentric venting and a Nicaloy primary heat exchanger which to me tells me both the install and unit cost will remain high. Only one left now without a unit above 90% is the Paloma/Rheem/Ruud line....See Moretank inline with tankless water heater
Comments (10)I am in the process of researching electric tankless water heaters for our remodel as I want the space our traditional tank heater requires. I stumbled across your post looking for people posting their research on which size electric they have. The tankless sites have spreadsheet style charts showing gpm flow plus temperature rise. You may have a third option of installing a new electric tankless that will produce a greater temperature rise at your greatest demand (gpm). However the electric heaters have huge energy demands when they turn on so you may not have enough capacity in your electrical panel to upgrade. the ones I am debating between for our two adult one bathroom home are either the 96 amp size or the 120 amp size. For the same situation you have-solar preheat most of the time but during our California winter storms we can be 7-10 days with no solar to speak of and then the water passing through the solar storage tank is not much warmer than it is coming out of the ground, maybe 50 degrees. I assume you are being reasonably careful about not doing two hot water demand things at once? It is easy for our household to not shower and do dishes/laundry, for example. But with a baby & visitors maybe coordinating running the dishwasher/washing machine when you also need hot water to bathe baby or yourselves gets too complicated? Another option that crosses my mind is to change the solar storage tank to one that could be turned on (gas or electric) when you absolutely need to have warmer water coming into the on demand heater. You could set it to the lowest possible temperature setting and then switch it off when the solar is working to preheat the water. Or possibly get one that can be set to preheat the water on a timer so it runs just once a day, just enough to preheat the water to the level that the tankless can keep up because it needs to raise the temperature only 30 degrees instead of 50-60 degrees. Sorting out what exactly is the issue may help you decide what to do. Do you not have enough temperature rise only when you are trying to do two hot water demand activities at once? If this issue arises only when you have guests you may be able to suffer through the inconvenience of not running the dishwasher/washing machine when someone is showering? I am curious as to what size heater you have and how long you have had it and have you had maintenance issues yet (do you have hard or soft water and do you pretreat the water if it is hard?) and anything else you would share with someone who hasn't taken the plunge!...See MoreHW heater-propane vs electric, tank vs tankless
Comments (5)Full disclosure - I own a Tankless gas water heater and love it. I had a 50gal tanked gas water heater before. Due to space constraints, it could not be replaced. It was in the doorway of the utility room. Here is what I learned when looking at Tankless water heaters. Just like when you want to go solar, you have to get more efficient with your appliances. The things I did to change my plumbing fixtures were intrinsic. All these things below were done as part of replacing aging fixtures and were not related to the tankless decision but made the decision and experience with tankless flawless. Replaced all but one bathroom shower valve with a Thermostatic valve. The last one will be replaced this winter. Replace all shower heads with units that used no more than 2.5gal/min Replaced all bathroom and kitchen faucets with units that used less than 2.5gal/min My dishwashers and washers already heated their own water and all but one of my Washers can use all cold water as input. The dishwasher and washers were energy efficient and used small amounts of water. There is a large bathtub in the house and the tankless water heater is wonderful for this. We take a bath maybe twice a week. I am getting a separate temperature controller for the tub bathroom so that the filling can happen without interfering with other activities. Currently, showers take priority. My house hold has 3 adults in it and we always seem to be in the shower at the same time (3 full bathrooms). With the tankless water heater, this is no longer an issue. I like in Maryland where we get really cold in the winter:-). I have a recirculator with my tankless water heater and that is on a timer. It runs for a few hours in the morning and a few hours in the evening. When the recirculator is not running, it takes about 1minute to get hot water to the farthest location in the house. I may add the point of use tankless heater to the bathroom faucets just because it wastes time to wait for hot water. This issue with hot water at the farthest location was always a problem. I purchased the largest residential tankless water heater which with a 30degree rise, will get you 9.6gpms. This would theoretically allow me to run 3 showers and a faucet at the same time. My unit is programmed to 110F degrees and the showers are set to about 105F degrees. The thermostat for the tankless is in an easy to reach location in the hallway and I can easily increase or decrease the water temperature. I originally started at 140F which is the max temp. I changed it the first day when I could barely wash my hands without burning them. My temperature rise in the summer is about 35F degrees and 50F degrees in the winter. When I went with tankless, I had heard all the horror stories of cold water sandwiches, huge volume drops due to cold incoming water and flow rate to get started at the sink. I have not experienced any of this. I think the thermostatic valves in the shower contribute to this quite a bit. I am able to get hot water at the sink in under 10 seconds except for the farthest unit. When the recirculator is running, the water is hot within 2 seconds. Just enough time to flush the water from the steel part of the faucet. Propane would be my choice in your situation. Electric tanked or tankless water heaters would leave you in a lurch when the power went out. Propane tankless water heaters don't perform as efficiently as the natural gas units but that is true of all propane appliances. I have my tankless water heater hooked up to an uninterruptable power supply in the event of a power failure which we have quite often. I also have a small gasoline back up generator and the tankless unit works fine when connected. I have a Rinnai RUR98i. This unit has a built in recirculator pump. You can also purchase a separate recirculator with the tankless or tanked unit of your choice. I purchased it from build.com and my plumber installed it. I also installed the scale water filter before the unit and this keeps the unit operational without a lot of build up. The unit is just over a year old and I performed a maintenance in the summer. There was very little build up. I am also installing a whole house filter for sediment and chlorine due to some work the water company is doing in my neighborhood for the next year. I have not selected a solution yet for the whole house filter. Good luck with your decision....See Moreweedmeister
4 years agodchall_san_antonio
4 years agosmiles33
4 years ago
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