PLEASE HELP- NEED EXPERT MUNTIN ADVICE FOR WINDOW LITE PATTERN
lesliekatzman
6 years ago
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Comments (11)
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I need a house herb expert, on mildew, lights, pots, and aphids.
Comments (12)Spider mites are often caused by warm, dry conditions. A good rinsing will help get rid of most of them. You can help keep them away with a humidifier (in heated or air-conditioned spaces) or by keeping a window open. You can also set the pots above trays of water, add gravel to your saucers so that they can hold a little water away from your plants, or put a baking dish of water on the radiator. Produce a mild breeze with a fan; good air circulation will also help with things like powdery mildew. It's important not to overwater; herbs are especially sensitive to this. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering thoroughly. Make sure all of your pots drain properly (water runs out the bottom when you water them) and never let the plants have "wet feet", in other words don't ever let the pots sit in even a small amount of water. A spray consisting of a teaspoon of baking soda to a quart of water, with a drop or two of dish soap, will help kill powdery mildew. Apply every week or two until the problem goes away. Meanwhile, promptly remove and throw away any branches that become mildewed. Even though I don't have any outdoor growing space in my city apartment, I've been able to rig up a sunny outdoor window box that can grow herbs pretty well. Is this a possibility for you? Neem is "organic" but I wouldn't want to eat it, partly because it smells like a cross between garlic and peanut butter and tastes terrible. Some of those other sprays, even if they're "environmentally friendly," sound even worse. If you can't grow herbs indoors without sprays, I'd suggest getting rid of them. You'll get cleaner, healthier produce at the farmer's market, and there are plenty of houseplants that are more tolerant of the indoor environment....See MoreI'm back! Need to make some final decisions. Expert Advice Needed!
Comments (20)Jpmom, you home is gorgeous already! The 12" crown will look perfect with the already tall baseboards. Then add all the other woodwork in, the fireplace mantle, wainscoting, and pillars in the dining room. So pretty! My first reaction was to continue the white painted woodwork. It seems naturally connected to that bar wall from the the LR and DR with the baseboards and wainscoting. Oh and I also love that transom window above the other doorway too! My other thought was that I know from experience how the backsplash tile can completely change colors due to the lighting and what is directly next to it. I would want the two areas in the kitchen with the backsplash to look related. It may look completely different with one being next a window with white cabs and dark counters verses the other being in low natural light with black cabs and white Quartz. I'd definitely wait to decide on what to do with the bar area until the rest of the kitchen is painted white as Romy suggested. I do think it might look great either way, but I'm just one who needs to see it in real life before committing. I am sure either way it is gonna be stunning! ETA.... Could you possibly find a remnant of the Volga blue to fit the bar top if you went with white cabs on the bar? Or possibly just cut the granite and add a dark walnut type wood butcherblock section that reads dark above the wine fridge? Think romy's dark wood top next to the granite? Just a thought....:-)...See Moreneed expert advice - 8” livesawn solid oak flooring install
Comments (17)Everyone gave me such good advice that I’ve come back for more help! Maybe I should start a new thread for this, but thought I’d start here first. Good news is I’ve corrected some concerns for the moisture issue before our hardwood install. Gutters, exterior drains, crawl space dehumidifiers in crawl space (commercial size) all installed. I’m also working with HVAC & electrical for temporary power to the HVAC system. So I’m feeling comfortable with that. I’ve also decided to go with 7.5” European live sawn engineered core with a 6mm wear layer rather than the 8” solids white oak. Now my issue is staining... I was going to use the loba 2k Supra finish but am now leaning toward an impact oil. Beautiful light to medium floors leaning more gray than red is what I was anticipating until... I realize my stair treads are red oak! I’ve contemplated getting a quote to change out the stair treads, but I have two large staircases and I’m afraid that will cost a fortune. We are well over budget already and still a ways to go. There is a decently large balcony area where the edge for the balusters are also red oak as part of the staircase landing and trim material. The balusters should be going up this week. Any suggestions?? Do I halt the baluster and railing install and have it all switched out (dependent on cost) or is there a way to match/blend the flooring and the stair material? I’ve read about bleaching the red oak, dying green, or staining both dark instead of light. I just don’t know the process of those options or how well it actually works. All advice is appreciated....See MoreFurniture refinishing experts - help please
Comments (8)The design is painted on. Are you sure it is a wax finish? If so you can reapply a wax finish. You can lightly sand your table with a fine 180/220 sanding block and then carefully tack off any dust. Don’t oversand though, you won’t eliminate all of the scratches but you don’t want sand off the hand painted design work. You can then apply the wax with a soft cloth; let it dry overnight and then buff to a shine with a clean soft cloth. The wax gives a much nicer, softer look IMO than polyurethane. Wax is solvent based btw....See Morelesliekatzman
6 years agolesliekatzman
6 years agolesliekatzman
6 years ago
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