You can't nail or staple to concrete. So your options would be to glue or, yes, forgot about floating. Not sure I'd want to float a floor with potential for liquid spills. Research slab installations for limitations and requirements, but the specific flooring documents will tell you how they need to be installed and cared for. It looks like the linked floor is 3/4'. Glue down is typically 3/8', some can go up to 1/2' but I'm not sure it's a best practice. Can't remember floating specs either but they are usually thinner, maybe up to 1/2' and need to be at least 3 inches wide, as I recall. They are certainly easier for install and removal. These new floors just do not hold up like the solid wood ones of the past. Engineered can be better than solid depending on the weather in your location. Beveled edges are often if not always used for prefinished floors so the boards can fit together as a flush surface. With square edges on solid unfinished, they install, sand flush and then finish. There are micro bevels that are less noticeable. Be aware of the board lengths of the floor you select, if you want a traditional random length look. The cuts today are often shorter and sometimes even all the same. Note how much variation in color/grain there is. There is a scale for comparison. Also be aware of the way floating floors sound and feel under foot, with or without underlayments, before you commit. They have a different hollow sound and feel. One I walked on in a show room, supposedly professional install, squeaked like the devil all over. Unfortunately, you need to do your research quite a bit on this! Make sure you know how they will install it so that it will meet specs. Avoid the mass production stair stepping method and H joints. Make sure the wood is acclimated to your house for a number of weeks; stored flat, only two or three boxes high. Floor must be flat and level; checked for moisture content and be in equilibrium with the flooring boards moisture content at install . Etc! And verify anything I've said, lol. Installers are not necessarily diligent (or even reasonably careful) with this stuff. Here's a link with some pointers: Here is a link that might be useful: Hardwood installation tips This post was edited by snookums2 on Wed, Jul 31, 13 at 20:11

We just had something similar happen with a fireclay farm sink and soapstone counters. It was the fabricator that noticed the cabinet didn't allow the sink to come out far enough (counters 25 from wall and so was sink so no reveal of the side curves). He fabricated based on cabinet being adjusted 3/4 inch and I was very concerned. Our sink also sat low but the fabricator used pieces of wood to prop it up and level it. In the end it is ok. There is a gap under the sink so they painted molding to match cabinets and glued it. It can only be seen if you are sitting on floor so I let it go. In this photo contractor is holding the molding prior to painting it. I was very disappointed that our contractor knew nothing about installing these popular sinks and he claims to be a kitchen expert. He thought plumber was responsible.

I have a rug that covers most of the wooden floor. It is an indoor-outdoor material that looks/feels like almost woolen. No tripping or sliding because it covers the full width of the kitchen. I wanted the protection because the narrow kitchen is the route to the basement & back door, the dog who is fed in the kitchen, cat, and thoughtless other people in the house traipsing in through the back door (even though there is a mat there too). It does get dirty -- it is vacuumed a couple times/week, spot cleaned for spills, and cleaned with the rest of the carpeting in the house 3 times/year. I could, but have not, taken it outside to hose down and air dry. So I don't keep it as clean as I used to keep my vinyl floor, and tend to not think about it. The area in front of the stove isn't covered, that gets wiped down twice a week and is holding up well.

can you put in a new vanity light? there is nothing spa-like about it. You can put that one aside, (find a cheaper option w/lights that point down!) and install one of your own. this one is from lowes Ditto w/knobs on the cabinet. and maybe a new window covering. You can find bamboo blinds at lowes. grab a few plants and hang them from the ceiling like shown. (get little screw in J hooks. that can be removed and patched when you leave) see how cute? find a garden stool (HomeGoods) and put it between toilet/sink. or under window. bring in baskets. maybe hang a shelf over toilet. get some towel hangers. pretty towels. greenery, some pictures. maybe paint the wall a diff color. bamboo blinds, wicker baskets, new rug. all will give you a diff feel. how about some type of bamboo shelf caddy? maybe next to toilet or somewhere else? But you need to start w/a light fixture! these are simple DIY privacy shades i'd prob find a larger rug. one that spans toilet/sink, and covers a good portion of the tile (not these colors,,,just showing you the size large fluffy, washable white one, would prob be best get something that stretches from door to wall and tub to toilet or, try a wood / teak or bamboo, mat for exiting the shower and get a smaller rug for in front of the sink. you really shouldn't have a toilet rug. (I mean, you can, unless you have 3 guys using this bathroom. in that case it would get kind of gross.) they have a cork mat too hide the toilet supplies on the other side. maybe find a storage caddie for those