"So what do you spray Olpea for summer rots?" Appleseed, I don't have a lot of apples. I've grown maybe 5 or 6 varieties in my yard is all. I have about 25 apples planted at the farm, but they are pretty new and none have fruited, so I really don't have a lot of experience with apples. I've not had an issue with summer apple rots here. Most of the time, when I spray peaches here at the house, I also hit the apples with whatever is in the tank, as long as it's labeled for apples. Most of the time the tank will have some fungicide in it. Typically I might use Captan for peach scab early season. Later in the season I use a fungicide more specific to brown rot on peaches. Something like Pristine. Both are labeled for apples as well as peaches. I've used Ziram before (also labeled for apples and peaches) and I think I may go back to that. It's not as effective against scab as Captan, but it does provide some foliar zinc, and peaches are heavy feeders of zinc.

Aphids are one of those odd bugs that fly at certain points in the on-going life cycle and don't at others. They probably few in at one point last year, and are now living permanently in/on the tree. If you can find a bunch of ladybugs and release them near the tree it might help, 'though maybe not for this year - I'm not sure how long the ladybug cycle is - since ladybug nymphs eat aphids, and the LBs will lay eggs where there is a goodly supply of aphids. Otherwise, a sharp spray of water will wash off a lot of them, - once off the plant, the crawling ones can't get back. Leaves infested with aphids will curl, so that's probably the answer to that. If you can look closely at any of the curled leaves, there are - or were - probably a "nice" population of aphids on the back. For scale photos, if you use Google and hit the Images icon above the "box", you should get more than you want to look at. Just be sure to specify insects, or you will get all sorts of other strange things!

Ok.I went to wallyworld and they had LIQUID COPPER FUNGICIDE by Southern AG. Got home and it said to peel label open for directions. i peeled and there was nothing!!I googled it and found out there was also a NEUTRAL COPPER FUNGICIDE. Did I get the wrong one? Only directions they had were what I pasted below.Could not find any info about how soon I could pick veggies after using.I am guessing that this stuff is not too bad for us ;-( Some of my plants looked like they were wilting at the top this afternoon. I will see how they look tomorrow and also follow julieann's advice and pick off all the bad leaves. I think a couple of these plants are gonna croak.I was thinking of spraying wih the ortho also tomorrow. Good or bad? Also, What is Aspiring the mixture? LIQUID COPPER FUNGICIDE CONTAINS: 31.4% Copper Ammonium complex (8% Metallic Copper Equivalent, 0.784 lbs per gallon) USE ON: Many Fruits, Vegetables, Turfgrasses (algae control), Live Oak (moss control) and Ornamentals CONTROLS: Many bacterial and fungal leaf spots, rust, blights. Also controls algae in Turfgrass and moss in live oaks. RATE: Rates vary greatly depending upon use. See label. Ex. Peaches - 1.5 Tablespoons per gallon, Tomatoes - 2 ozs per 1,000 sq. ft. in 2 gallons of water, Ornamentals - 2 teaspoons per gallon, Moss control- 4.5 ozs per 1,000 sq. ft., Algae control in turfgrass - 1 pint per 1,000 sq. ft. in 5 gallons of water. APPLICATION: Mix with water and apply as a cover spray. PACKED: 12 x 8 oz. - #02901 12 x Pt - #02902, 12 x Qt - #02903 4 x Gal. - #02904 * This description is a new formulation. Check label.

Carolyn: I have sprayed with Kelp, but not for a while. It seemed that every time I sprayed with something, even Kelp, it burned the leaves. I try spraying only in the evenings so the hot sun does not burn the leaves. Last year, you diagnosed my tomato plants as having TSWD and I pulled them all and burned them (No tomatoes that year). But these plants don't look the same as those I had last year. These start at the bottom of the plant and are yellowing with purple veins. The ones last year, started at the top, and especially the newest foliage at the top was effected--and the leaves themselves last year, had a purple tint. I thought this might be a phosphate problem because I bought some bone meal and feed it to the plants having this problem and it did seem to help some. But I hesitate about using more because I don't want to over do it--I was afraid the Nitrogen in the Bone Meal might make the plant bushy and stop producing blooms and fruit. In order to prevent Thrips and Aphids this year, I have occasionally spayed with Pyola & Bulls-eye from Garden Alive. What do you think do you think about a deficiency? Thanks, Sheila