Here's the problem-- Everyone seems to think that tile will hide any problems, once the tile goes up. The reality is it shows any problems even more, because now the tile provides for smaller modular delineations on any surface the cover. In other words, there are more level and plumb lines with which to show off any abutting surfaces that are not. If the ceiling is out, it's going to show it. If you add crown molding to the ceiling, it's going to show it a few inches lower, because the crown will run parallel to the ceiling. This isn't on the tile guy. It's on who ever framed the house. of course, if the tile guy's not setting his tile level and true, forget about everything I just said! :-)

I think it depends on the overall scheme: In the 18th and early 19th century it was often painted the same color as the walls if it was wood millwork and it was often painted the same color as the ceiling if it was ornamental plaster work. Through the middle of the 19th century into the 20th century when stained woodwork was in vogue, it was often stained, which made it different than both the walls and the ceiling. Then when everyone started painting all this stained woodwork white, it got painted white. I think it depends on the room and what you want it to look like. There isn't really any final answer except it usually isn't it's own exclusive color.

I am wrestling with the same decision. My new home is a 1920's Dutch colonial with cofferred ceilings on the entire first floor. All original woodwork. While it is beautiful it really darkens the space. There is not a lot of natural light to balance it out. Being close to the beach, a white trim would be more appropriate and more to my tastes, but I have a massive amount of guilt over the thought of covering the original wood. What did you decide to do?

I’ve heard that you could/should cut the trim color by half or 80/20 or something too. Is that a good idea Not a good idea. It's a terrible idea. I don't think the people who suggest this have actually done it. Or else they haven't seen it done with many colors. Alabaster "cut by 50%" is a weird greenish-yellow dead gray white. I don't know how SW "cut" the formula. I didn't look. And who knows how the staff at your SW would decide what "50%" means. Most of the colors we choose for interior use are near neutrals, muted, chromatic grays and whites. The amounts of colorants are small to begin with - there's nothing to "cut". It's not mathematically possible in some cases and in every case it's up to the person mixing the paint to decide how to "cut" the formula. The other completely terrible horrible idea is to get a gallon of white and "add it" to your wall color. That has inconsistent results as well. Most of the time you can't even tell white was added so you end up with 2 gallons of a color that you were trying to change instead of just one. It's a mess. In addition, if you do add white and use it, you HAVE to save a quantity of the mix for touch ups because you'll never mix that color again. Ceiling can be the same color as the walls or a different color of white. I'd suggest a SW match to PPG's Delicate white to go with Alabaster on the crown.